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All of the Wallsend crags face west so catch the afternoon sun well. Wallsend South is closer to the sea and can suffer from soapy rock on still and humid days, whereas Wallsend North is set back a little and is less affected by greasyness. The Colors Area and Hong Kon Phooey Area are cut off at high tides or in rough seas.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

There are no applied bird restriction along the Wallsend cliff at present, (2022) However due to it's more isolated nature and available nesting ledges, it is often populated with breeding pairs of seabird through the season. As well as a Ravens nest in the Bigger Peace area.

Be sensible and avoid any routes close to nesting birds and advise others of nests, to leave them in peace. They will all be gone by mid July.

 

Rockfax Description
The wall above the short corner is worthwhile. Start at the short corner in the low overhang. Move up through the overhang and pull left to a sloping ledge. Follow the shallow groove and wall above to a ledge below the upper wall. Climb direct to finish. © Rockfax

FA. Mick Ward 08/Aug/2008.

Ticklists

West Country Climbs , ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List , Portland , Portland scheming

Feedback

User Date Notes
Iain Weymouth 8 Mar, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Nice sustained sequence around the 3rd bolt using positive crimps, small jugs and decent footholds. Followed by an easing in the middle. The top wall requires some balancy technical moves using weird glued on pebbles, a large knobbly pebble plus a vertical seam, excellent friction for smearing to get to the final break with a huge sigh of relief. A straightforward short steep finish over the final bulge to be welcomed by The Mother of All Jugs below the belay bolts. A tremendously varied and understated route ... 3 stars ? ... probably !
Show beta
βeta: Nice sustained sequence around the 3rd bolt using positive crimps, small jugs and decent footholds. Followed by an easing in the middle. The top wall requires some balancy technical moves using weird glued on pebbles, a large knobbly pebble plus a vertical seam, excellent friction for smearing to get to the final break with a huge sigh of relief. A straightforward short steep finish over the final bulge to be welcomed by The Mother of All Jugs below the belay bolts. A tremendously varied and understated route ... 3 stars ? ... probably !
abrooks 13 Aug, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Some loose rock by the 3rd bolt...fairly big hold was pulled down
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Some loose rock by the 3rd bolt...fairly big hold was pulled down

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
Votes cast 30
Votes cast 32
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Redpoint
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Buoys will be Buoys

Grade: 6b+ ***
(Battleship Back Cliff)

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