UKC Logbook - 'Waiting for the Barbarians'

Rockfax Description
The wall above the short corner is worthwhile. Start at the short corner in the low overhang. Move up through the overhang and pull left to a sloping ledge. Follow the shallow groove and wall above to a ledge below the upper wall. Climb direct to finish. © Rockfax

FA. Mick Ward 08/Aug/2008.

Ticklists

West Country Climbs , ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List , Portland , Portland scheming

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User	Date		Notes
Iain Weymouth	8 Mar, 2021	Show βeta βeta: Nice sustained sequence around the 3rd bolt using positive crimps, small jugs and decent footholds. Followed by an easing in the middle. The top wall requires some balancy technical moves using weird glued on pebbles, a large knobbly pebble plus a vertical seam, excellent friction for smearing to get to the final break with a huge sigh of relief. A straightforward short steep finish over the final bulge to be welcomed by The Mother of All Jugs below the belay bolts. A tremendously varied and understated route ... 3 stars ? ... probably !
Show beta βeta: Nice sustained sequence around the 3rd bolt using positive crimps, small jugs and decent footholds. Followed by an easing in the middle. The top wall requires some balancy technical moves using weird glued on pebbles, a large knobbly pebble plus a vertical seam, excellent friction for smearing to get to the final break with a huge sigh of relief. A straightforward short steep finish over the final bulge to be welcomed by The Mother of All Jugs below the belay bolts. A tremendously varied and understated route ... 3 stars ? ... probably !
abrooks	13 Aug, 2020	Show βeta βeta: Some loose rock by the 3rd bolt...fairly big hold was pulled down	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Some loose rock by the 3rd bolt...fairly big hold was pulled down