UKC

38m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A popular and worthwhile introduction to the crag.
1) 4b, 16m. Start at a long clean groove and climb this until a short traverse left leads to the detached ledge.
2) 4b, 22m. Traverse right below the roof then climb a short wall and long slim groove, right of the deeper one of Broken Toe... © Rockfax

FA. (P1) D.Meadows, Tony Watts, (P2) Doug Scott, Ray Gillies 1963.

Ticklists

Chris Jackson’s 100 Classic Limestone Climbs

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User Date Notes
Fraser kid 23 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Looser than other climbs I’ve tried here, but doesn’t detract: just use another hold, there’s plenty!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Looser than other climbs I’ve tried here, but doesn’t detract: just use another hold, there’s plenty!
Fidget 9 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: I agree that the second pitch was a lot harder than the first, also not as well protected. My partner and I decided top end S 4a for the bottom half, VS 4c for the top. Shame, because I'd chosen the route hoping for two fairly equally matched pitches, wanted to lead a VS! Watch out for loose rock if you lean back near the top of the first pitch - my belayer didn't appreciate the shower!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I agree that the second pitch was a lot harder than the first, also not as well protected. My partner and I decided top end S 4a for the bottom half, VS 4c for the top. Shame, because I'd chosen the route hoping for two fairly equally matched pitches, wanted to lead a VS! Watch out for loose rock if you lean back near the top of the first pitch - my belayer didn't appreciate the shower!
GrahamD 2 Nov, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: The top pitch is definately harder than the lower one. The bottom pitch is probably 4a and the top a stiff 4b.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The top pitch is definately harder than the lower one. The bottom pitch is probably 4a and the top a stiff 4b.
Chris the Tall 18 May, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Good fun throughout but the second pitch felt more like 4c than 4b. But it was towards the end of a long hot day.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Good fun throughout but the second pitch felt more like 4c than 4b. But it was towards the end of a long hot day.

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 108
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
Votes cast 109
Votes cast 104
Style of Ascent
Lead
Alt Leads
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Dogged
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Snakes Alive

Grade: VS 4c ***
(Dovedale)

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