Rockfax Description
A popular and worthwhile introduction to the crag.
1) 4b, 16m. Start at a long clean groove and climb this until a short traverse left leads to the detached ledge.
2) 4b, 22m. Traverse right below the roof then climb a short wall and long slim groove, right of the deeper one of Broken Toe... © Rockfax
FA. (P1) D.Meadows, Tony Watts, (P2) Doug Scott, Ray Gillies 1963.
Chris Jackson’s 100 Classic Limestone Climbs
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Fraser kid | 23 Jul, 2019 |
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βeta: Looser than other climbs I’ve tried here, but doesn’t detract: just use another hold, there’s plenty! | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Looser than other climbs I’ve tried here, but doesn’t detract: just use another hold, there’s plenty! |
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Fidget | 9 Jul, 2005 |
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βeta: I agree that the second pitch was a lot harder than the first, also not as well protected. My partner and I decided top end S 4a for the bottom half, VS 4c for the top. Shame, because I'd chosen the route hoping for two fairly equally matched pitches, wanted to lead a VS! Watch out for loose rock if you lean back near the top of the first pitch - my belayer didn't appreciate the shower! | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: I agree that the second pitch was a lot harder than the first, also not as well protected. My partner and I decided top end S 4a for the bottom half, VS 4c for the top. Shame, because I'd chosen the route hoping for two fairly equally matched pitches, wanted to lead a VS! Watch out for loose rock if you lean back near the top of the first pitch - my belayer didn't appreciate the shower! |
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GrahamD | 2 Nov, 2004 |
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βeta: The top pitch is definately harder than the lower one. The bottom pitch is probably 4a and the top a stiff 4b. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: The top pitch is definately harder than the lower one. The bottom pitch is probably 4a and the top a stiff 4b. |
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Chris the Tall | 18 May, 2004 |
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βeta: Good fun throughout but the second pitch felt more like 4c than 4b. But it was towards the end of a long hot day. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Good fun throughout but the second pitch felt more like 4c than 4b. But it was towards the end of a long hot day. |
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Grade: VS 4c ***
(Dovedale)