UKC

Rockfax Description
A long meandering trad line that can be a little dusty in its lower reaches. Start on the far left of the North Wall at a broken ramp under a small roof at 4m.
1) 5b, 23m. Move up the ramp and head left to a small ledge below a short wall. Climb the short wall (bolt) to another ledge. Pull up to the ledge above and then up to the next roof, from where a difficult traverse right beneath it (2 pegs) accesses a short wall. Climb the wall to a peg and traverse right to reach the base of a corner/groove. Belay here or move down to ledges.
2) 4c, 20m. Climb the groove to its end. Move left and then back right before climbing up to a very small tree under a prominent notched nose. Make an exposed traverse right then move up to a ledge and abseil/lower-off. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
5b,4c

J Willson, A Simmins 11/Apr/1981.

Ticklists

Wye Valley Starred E1-E3

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User Date Notes
emmawhitley 17 Sep, 2024 Show βeta
βeta: Good quality adventure climbing
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Good quality adventure climbing
nniff 24 Jun, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Absolutely minging - dust, leaves etc. Pulled a big block off at the first break and went with it. Pleased to have a good excuse to leave it well alone after that. On the plus side, there's now less of it to be minging or to fall off. Leave well alone until the bottom parts have had a good clean......
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Absolutely minging - dust, leaves etc. Pulled a big block off at the first break and went with it. Pleased to have a good excuse to leave it well alone after that. On the plus side, there's now less of it to be minging or to fall off. Leave well alone until the bottom parts have had a good clean......
BStar 15 Jul, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Broke a hand hold a off on the traverse out left 5m up on P1, possibly a bit more awkward now
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Broke a hand hold a off on the traverse out left 5m up on P1, possibly a bit more awkward now

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 29
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 28
Votes cast 22
Style of Ascent
Lead
Alt Leads
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
DNF
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Lunar Bass

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Coaley Wood Crag)

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