UKC

Restricted Access

Fly Wall and Woodcroft Quarry: the current owners have not given permission to climb on this section of crag. If you do climb on this part of the crag, please be careful not to damage any fences in the area.

GO Wall: topping out now allowed year round for all routes from Feline/Jackal leftwards. King Kong ab. bolts removed. No topping out any time for right hand end – ab. stations in place where required. A large rockfall has recently (Jan 2013) been reported at the righthand side of the Pedestal on Go Wall - care should be taken with any remaining loose rock that may still be in place in this area.

North Wall: following a change of ownership of the house above this section of crag, the previous arrangement to exit through it’s garden is not longer possible. Please do not top out on any North Wall routes - only abseil descent from below the top of the crag is allowed. For those who don't wan't to climb above the Great Ledge, an abseil descent can be made from one of the two bolted abseil stations above The Tap or Joe’s Route. Two further abseil stations have been established just below the top of North Wall (using rope slings and rings around trees) allowing the last pitch of the more popular routes to be climbed and an abseil descent to the Great Ledge be made. 

All rock north of the North Buttress and south of Fly Wall is privately owned and all climbing is prohibited.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 15 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ravens nesting on Wurlitzer. The restriction applies to all routes on Fly Wall between Flypast and Gendarmerie.

Peregrins nesting on North Wall. Avoid top pithes of left hand route (from the great ledge)

Rockfax Description
A long meandering trad line that can be a little dusty in its lower reaches. Start on the far left of the North Wall at a broken ramp under a small roof at 4m.
1) 5b, 23m. Move up the ramp and head left to a small ledge below a short wall. Climb the short wall (bolt) to another ledge. Pull up to the ledge above and then up to the next roof, from where a difficult traverse right beneath it (2 pegs) accesses a short wall. Climb the wall to a peg and traverse right to reach the base of a corner/groove. Belay here or move down to ledges.
2) 4c, 20m. Climb the groove to its end. Move left and then back right before climbing up to a very small tree under a prominent notched nose. Make an exposed traverse right then move up to a ledge and abseil/lower-off. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
5b,4c

J Willson, A Simmins 11/Apr/1981.

Ticklists

Wye Valley Starred E1-E3

Feedback

User Date Notes
nniff 24 Jun, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Absolutely minging - dust, leaves etc. Pulled a big block off at the first break and went with it. Pleased to have a good excuse to leave it well alone after that. On the plus side, there's now less of it to be minging or to fall off. Leave well alone until the bottom parts have had a good clean......
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Absolutely minging - dust, leaves etc. Pulled a big block off at the first break and went with it. Pleased to have a good excuse to leave it well alone after that. On the plus side, there's now less of it to be minging or to fall off. Leave well alone until the bottom parts have had a good clean......
BStar 15 Jul, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Broke a hand hold a off on the traverse out left 5m up on P1, possibly a bit more awkward now
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Broke a hand hold a off on the traverse out left 5m up on P1, possibly a bit more awkward now

Logged Ascents

117 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Wintour's Leap

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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 29
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 28
Votes cast 22
Style of Ascent
Lead
Alt Leads
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
DNF
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
King Kong

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Wintour's Leap)

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