UKC

Restricted Access

Fly Wall and Woodcroft Quarry: the current owners have not given permission to climb on this section of crag. If you do climb on this part of the crag, please be careful not to damage any fences in the area.

GO Wall: topping out now allowed year round for all routes from Feline/Jackal leftwards. King Kong ab. bolts removed. No topping out any time for right hand end – ab. stations in place where required. A large rockfall has recently (Jan 2013) been reported at the righthand side of the Pedestal on Go Wall - care should be taken with any remaining loose rock that may still be in place in this area.

North Wall: following a change of ownership of the house above this section of crag, the previous arrangement to exit through it’s garden is not longer possible. Please do not top out on any North Wall routes - only abseil descent from below the top of the crag is allowed. For those who don't wan't to climb above the Great Ledge, an abseil descent can be made from one of the two bolted abseil stations above The Tap or Joe’s Route. Two further abseil stations have been established just below the top of North Wall (using rope slings and rings around trees) allowing the last pitch of the more popular routes to be climbed and an abseil descent to the Great Ledge be made. 

All rock north of the North Buttress and south of Fly Wall is privately owned and all climbing is prohibited.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 15 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ravens nesting on Wurlitzer. The restriction applies to all routes on Fly Wall between Flypast and Gendarmerie.

Peregrins nesting on North Wall. Avoid top pithes of left hand route (from the great ledge)

18m.

Rockfax Description
The last bolted line on this section of wall is often climbed but like its left-hand neighbour, some of the rock is not above suspicion and needs to be inspected before being relied upon. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Between Dog of the Month and Moving on up. A shockingly loose heap of crumble - best avoided! 6 bolts
see Gordon's summary sheet: http://www.climbers-club.co.uk/downloads/Woodcroft-SC-May-11.pdf

Ticklists

Wye Valley Salathe Lite

Feedback

User Date Notes
Sarah Gay 20 May, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: I think a lot of the looseness has gone. The rock felt pretty solid
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I think a lot of the looseness has gone. The rock felt pretty solid
Cameron_S 10 Jun, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Very loose. Broke a handhold at one point
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Very loose. Broke a handhold at one point

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 9
Votes cast 8
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
DNF
Redpoint
Dogged
Not Set
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