Rockfax Description
Two contrasting pitches that combine to give a sustained and complex line up the walls left of the edge of the North Wall. Described here with the direct variation on pitch one. Start at a clear patch of rock 5m left of the corner of The Angel's Eye.
1) 5c, 25m. Move up left onto a ledge and peg. Climb the tricky wall above to another peg and transfer left to a groove and cracks in orange-stained rock. Move up to the overhang and pull over (peg) and up the short wall to a good ledge. Traverse left along the ledge to a belay below a block.
2) 5c, 32m. From the top of the block, go right and back left to the base of a flared rib. Follow the thin and technical rib, past a peg, to better holds. Move up and then head for a short crack on the right that leads to easier ground and The Great Ledge. © Rockfax
Ticklists
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Kiddie68 | 25 Apr |
Show βeta
βeta: I really enjoyed this route. First pitch was fun, not too difficult and protection ok despite occasionally runout. Belayed by slinging the entire block to back up pegs. Climbed direct above rather than around to the right, more in keeping with the grade. Crux moves took some figuring out but were ok, protected by peg and good but small wires. Fun final crack. Overall an excellent outing. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: I really enjoyed this route. First pitch was fun, not too difficult and protection ok despite occasionally runout. Belayed by slinging the entire block to back up pegs. Climbed direct above rather than around to the right, more in keeping with the grade. Crux moves took some figuring out but were ok, protected by peg and good but small wires. Fun final crack. Overall an excellent outing. |
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Orange Goblin
Grade: E2 6a ***
(Ellwood)