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67m, 3 pitches. From the bottom of Easy Way down, keeping the rock on your left walk along the path, passing the large triangle shaped gash and some ivy covered ledges until you reach an obvious scramble up to a series of ledges. Scramble up to first ledge and then onto the second ledge to the start of the route next to a small tree on the left of this ledge.

Pitch 1: ~30m

Climb the crack near the tree to a small roof (bolt just out of reach above) and traverse left to a peg. Climb upwards until level with the first small tree (you can if desired traverse further left and clip the tree before returning right). From here go left a little and up until level with the second slightly larger tree (peg) and the traverse left until you reach this tree. From here climb the small rib to the larger ledge and a tree belay.

Pitch 2: ~12m

From behind the tree belay climb the pocketed crack (thread) to small ledge and mount the larger ledge to reach a tree belay.

Pitch 3: ~35m

From behind the tree climb the obvious crack to a dark slab, following the line of weakness to a grassy ledge. Climb up and left until you reach the ledge below the large dark wall. Traverse further left to a large uneven crack and then climb this crack until you reach a ledge. Follow these easy ledges and a tree belay.

From the tree belay head up and left to the top of Easy Way Down, where you can walk off onto Lancut Lane or back down Easy Way Down.

Ticklists

CC Wye Valley and Forest of Dean trad stars, blue list (VS and HVS)

Feedback

User Date Notes
Sid Sherborne 21 Sep, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Very wobbly hold in the groove on pitch 1 after the peg.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Very wobbly hold in the groove on pitch 1 after the peg.
Jonno30 18 Jun, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Some loose holds as you work up the route. Nothing too serious just take care.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Some loose holds as you work up the route. Nothing too serious just take care.

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Route of Interest

The Angel's Girdle

Grade: VS 5a ***
(Wintour's Leap)