UKC

Restricted Access

Fly Wall and Woodcroft Quarry: the current owners have not given permission to climb on this section of crag. If you do climb on this part of the crag, please be careful not to damage any fences in the area.

GO Wall: topping out now allowed year round for all routes from Feline/Jackal leftwards. King Kong ab. bolts removed. No topping out any time for right hand end – ab. stations in place where required. A large rockfall has recently (Jan 2013) been reported at the righthand side of the Pedestal on Go Wall - care should be taken with any remaining loose rock that may still be in place in this area.

North Wall: following a change of ownership of the house above this section of crag, the previous arrangement to exit through it’s garden is not longer possible. Please do not top out on any North Wall routes - only abseil descent from below the top of the crag is allowed. For those who don't wan't to climb above the Great Ledge, an abseil descent can be made from one of the two bolted abseil stations above The Tap or Joe’s Route. Two further abseil stations have been established just below the top of North Wall (using rope slings and rings around trees) allowing the last pitch of the more popular routes to be climbed and an abseil descent to the Great Ledge be made. 

All rock north of the North Buttress and south of Fly Wall is privately owned and all climbing is prohibited.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 15 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ravens nesting on Wurlitzer. The restriction applies to all routes on Fly Wall between Flypast and Gendarmerie.

Peregrins nesting on North Wall. Avoid top pithes of left hand route (from the great ledge)

30m. The massive grooveline on the far left of The Amphitheatre in Woodcroft Quarry (Just left of Moving On Up) gives a good long adventure route with plenty of protection, although expect some hollow rock and earthy ledges. Climb the initial tricky groove to ledges on the left. Move back up right and tackle a layback crack moving right at its top to a ledge. Finish up a steep headwall to tree belays on the path.

M S Davies, R Stanfield 09/Jul/2016.

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Route of Interest
Red Rose Speedway

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Symonds Yat)

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