Fly Wall and Woodcroft Quarry: the current owners have not given permission to climb on this section of crag. If you do climb on this part of the crag, please be careful not to damage any fences in the area.
GO Wall: topping out now allowed year round for all routes from Feline/Jackal leftwards. King Kong ab. bolts removed. No topping out any time for right hand end – ab. stations in place where required. A large rockfall has recently (Jan 2013) been reported at the righthand side of the Pedestal on Go Wall - care should be taken with any remaining loose rock that may still be in place in this area.
North Wall: following a change of ownership of the house above this section of crag, the previous arrangement to exit through it’s garden is not longer possible. Please do not top out on any North Wall routes - only abseil descent from below the top of the crag is allowed. For those who don't wan't to climb above the Great Ledge, an abseil descent can be made from one of the two bolted abseil stations above The Tap or Joe’s Route. Two further abseil stations have been established just below the top of North Wall (using rope slings and rings around trees) allowing the last pitch of the more popular routes to be climbed and an abseil descent to the Great Ledge be made.
All rock north of the North Buttress and south of Fly Wall is privately owned and all climbing is prohibited.
Dates: 1 March to 15 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
Ravens nesting on Wurlitzer. The restriction applies to all routes on Fly Wall between Flypast and Gendarmerie.
Peregrins nesting on North Wall. Avoid top pithes of left hand route (from the great ledge)
Rockfax Description
Engaging technical climbing. Intense moves up the groove and side-pulls to its left gain better holds. Now head up left past overlaps until a final move right (with feet on the edge of the final overhang) gains a lower-off © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
An impressive looking outing that scales the full height of the cliff. An astonishing multitude of jugs makes this suprisingly simple for its grade. Start 4 metres right of the huge, full-height, vegetated corner. Climb the initial flake and an interesting technical groove (crux) and at its top swing out right on to the right arĂȘte. Step up onto a big ledge, and then onto another, just up to the left (intermediate abseil station). Avoid contact with the suspect flake immediately in front by stepping left and pulling up on good edges (next bolt runner is out right). Continue steeply on large edges to a pleasant rest in the big orange scoop and finish with unexpected ease stepping out right onto the lip of the bulge. Abseil station just above. The bottom groove was climbed by T Penning, S Pickett in 2006 at HVS and called Moving On. The extended, bolted version, as now described by G A Jenkin, C James, Miss Y Jones (all led), C Connern
G A Jenkin, C James, Miss Y Jones (all led), C Connern 26/Jun/2010.
Orange Spot Lower Wye , 6As with stars near Bristol , Wye Valley Sport
User | Date | Notes | ||
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GLO | 19 Jun, 2021 |
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βeta: Big loose block neat third bolt. Not very enjoyable. Lots and lots of loose rock. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Big loose block neat third bolt. Not very enjoyable. Lots and lots of loose rock. |
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whenry | 17 Oct, 2020 |
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βeta: Not that loose - just a couple of small blocks, though it certainly looks disconcerting. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Not that loose - just a couple of small blocks, though it certainly looks disconcerting. |
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Lolly Pope | 15 Jul, 2020 |
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βeta: Quite a few loose blocks and lots sounded hollow. Be really careful and don\'t use the loose blocks. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Quite a few loose blocks and lots sounded hollow. Be really careful and don't use the loose blocks. |
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Martino90 | 21 Jun, 2020 |
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βeta: Be mindful of the loose rock on the top section | βeta? | |
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βeta: Be mindful of the loose rock on the top section |
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Emmapickett | 5 May, 2019 |
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βeta: Be aware of some VERY loose rock. Wear a helmet. Route is perfect possible without using the loose rock! :) | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Be aware of some VERY loose rock. Wear a helmet. Route is perfect possible without using the loose rock! :) |
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