Rockfax Description
An old favourite that needs big gear on the top pitch. Start in the first eroded bay on the approach, under a left-facing corner.
1) 4a, 12m. Move up to the left-facing corner and follow it to the midway ledge. Belay behind a pillar.
2) 4c, 12m. Gain the top of the pillar. Take a short thin crack rightwards to a wide corner crack which leads to the top. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Two pitches but can be climbed as 1 (recommend half ropes). Take plenty of big gear (2 x large hex and a 3.5 cam).
The first pitch is fairly straightforward HS, up to a ledge with a good hex belay. The second climbs a large layback crack which will swallow plenty of big gear. Some thought provoking moves on the fairly polished crack feel exposed but well protected.
Top out into the quarry for sapling and quarry stake belay.
Ticklists
But what have you done on South-East Wales Sandstone/Limestone? , Wintours Sub 4c Half km challenge , Wye's it a trad classic (up to HVS)? , CC Wye Valley and Forest of Dean trad stars, blue list (VS and HVS) , Bristol Area Easy Trad Ticklist , Desperate for Crack (near Bristol)
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Trevers | 30 Aug |
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βeta: The half-height pedestal flexed slightly when I placed a cam behind it near the top, without applying much force. Be VERY careful with placing gear on the pedestal, or when pulling up onto it. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: The half-height pedestal flexed slightly when I placed a cam behind it near the top, without applying much force. Be VERY careful with placing gear on the pedestal, or when pulling up onto it. |
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| paul wood | 1 May, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: There is a bird nesting on P2. 1 May 2022. Please avoid for a while. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: There is a bird nesting on P2. 1 May 2022. Please avoid for a while. |
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| Gingerlings | 19 Sep, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: I've left a cam at the crux. When I tried to get it out it just kept walking backwards so I think it's there to stay :) | ||
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Show beta
βeta: I've left a cam at the crux. When I tried to get it out it just kept walking backwards so I think it's there to stay :) |
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| PaulJepson | 24 May, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: There is a small chockstone in the top crack that you might be able to get a sling around if you have long arms. May or may not be useful, depending on how much big gear you have left. Fine as 1 big pitch but if you put anything low down at the belay ledge, make sure you extend it plenty. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: There is a small chockstone in the top crack that you might be able to get a sling around if you have long arms. May or may not be useful, depending on how much big gear you have left. Fine as 1 big pitch but if you put anything low down at the belay ledge, make sure you extend it plenty. |
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| Liam P | 25 Apr, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: Get the Brasso out! With a bit of work you could see your face in those holds. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Get the Brasso out! With a bit of work you could see your face in those holds. |
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| wjcdean | 7 Jul, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: Lay backed from the pinnacle instead of stepping right. Felt strenuous. I am a weak boy | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Lay backed from the pinnacle instead of stepping right. Felt strenuous. I am a weak boy |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Wintour's Leap
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Freedom
Grade: VS 4c ***
(Wintour's Leap)