UKC

26m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
An old favourite that needs some big gear on the top pitch. Start in the first eroded bay reached on the approach, under a left-facing corner.
1) 4a, 12m. Move up to the left-facing corner and follow it to the midway ledge. Belay behind a pillar.
2) 4c, 12m. Gain the top of the pillar and then take a short thin crack rightwards to reach and climb a wide corner crack which leads all the way to the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Two pitches but can be climbed as 1 (recommend half ropes). Take plenty of big gear (2 x large hex and a 3.5 cam).

The first pitch is fairly straightforward HS, up to a ledge with a good hex belay. The second climbs a large layback crack which will swallow plenty of big gear. Some thought provoking moves on the fairly polished crack feel exposed but well protected.

Top out into the quarry for sapling and quarry stake belay.

Ticklists

But what have you done on South-East Wales Sandstone/Limestone? , Wintours Sub 4c Half km challenge , Wye's it a trad classic (up to HVS)? , CC Wye Valley and Forest of Dean trad stars, blue list (VS and HVS) , Bristol Area Easy Trad Ticklist

Feedback

User Date Notes
paul wood 1 May Show βeta
βeta: There is a bird nesting on P2. 1 May 2022. Please avoid for a while.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: There is a bird nesting on P2. 1 May 2022. Please avoid for a while.
Gingerlings 19 Sep, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: I've left a cam at the crux. When I tried to get it out it just kept walking backwards so I think it's there to stay :)
Show beta
βeta: I've left a cam at the crux. When I tried to get it out it just kept walking backwards so I think it's there to stay :)
PaulJepson 24 May, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: There is a small chockstone in the top crack that you might be able to get a sling around if you have long arms. May or may not be useful, depending on how much big gear you have left. Fine as 1 big pitch but if you put anything low down at the belay ledge, make sure you extend it plenty.
Show beta
βeta: There is a small chockstone in the top crack that you might be able to get a sling around if you have long arms. May or may not be useful, depending on how much big gear you have left. Fine as 1 big pitch but if you put anything low down at the belay ledge, make sure you extend it plenty.
Liam P 25 Apr, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Get the Brasso out! With a bit of work you could see your face in those holds.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Get the Brasso out! With a bit of work you could see your face in those holds.
wjcdean 7 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Lay backed from the pinnacle instead of stepping right. Felt strenuous. I am a weak boy
Show beta
βeta: Lay backed from the pinnacle instead of stepping right. Felt strenuous. I am a weak boy

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 115
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 111
Votes cast 99
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Toproped
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Ground Up
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Proboscis

Grade: VS 5a ***
(Huntsham Crags)

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