An old favourite that needs some big gear on the top pitch. Start in the first eroded bay reached on the approach, under a left-facing corner.
1) 4a, 12m. Move up to the left-facing corner and follow it to the midway ledge. Belay behind a pillar.
2) 4c, 12m. Gain the top of the pillar and then take a short thin crack rightwards to reach and climb a wide corner crack which leads all the way to the top. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Two pitches but can be climbed as 1 (recommend half ropes). Take plenty of big gear (2 x large hex and a 3.5 cam).
The first pitch is fairly straightforward HS, up to a ledge with a good hex belay. The second climbs a large layback crack which will swallow plenty of big gear. Some thought provoking moves on the fairly polished crack feel exposed but well protected.
Top out into the quarry for sapling and quarry stake belay.
But what have you done on South-East Wales Sandstone/Limestone? , Wintours Sub 4c Half km challenge , Wye's it a trad classic (up to HVS)? , CC Wye Valley and Forest of Dean trad stars, blue list (VS and HVS) , Bristol Area Easy Trad Ticklist
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