A fairly popular route with some good but runout climbing and tricky starts to both pitches - high in the grade. Begin 9m right of the Zelda corner under a very slim right-facing groove (this is 3m right of a notice board bolted to the wall).
1) 5a, 25m. Gain the groove by a bouldery move and ascend it (peg on right wall just above a horizontal crack) to easing ground and a tunnel through a band of trees. Head up the cleanest line to peg and nut belays on the right.
2) 5a, 34m. The moves off of the belay are difficult and precarious. Move up to the foot of a borehole and pull left (peg) to reach an open groove and follow it to a tree. Move right above the tree and then climb the wall above to reach the right-hand of two grooves (peg). Climb the groove to a small tree just above a horizontal break. Head out right along the break and make some long moves to a good ledge from where easier ground gains a bolted belay.
Descent - Abseil (55m) from here to the ground. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
The first pitch starts with a difficult semi-mantle onto a sloping hold then presses on steeply to the belay. The moves off the belay on the second pitch are difficult and precarious (take care) but lead to lovely open and bold climbing on the left side of the upper wall. A route at the high end of the grade overall.
J Willson, S R Smith 24/Oct/1979.
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