UKC

82m, 3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A fairly popular route with some good but run-out climbing and tricky starts to both pitches - high in the grade. Begin 9m right of the Zelda corner under a very slim right-facing groove (this is 3m right of a notice board bolted to the wall).
1) 5a, 25m. Gain the groove by a bouldery move and ascend it (peg on right wall, just above a horizontal crack) to easing ground and a tunnel through a band of trees. Head up the cleanest line to peg and nut belays on the right.
2) 5a, 34m. The moves off the belay are difficult and precarious. Move up to the foot of a borehole and pull left (peg) to reach an open groove and follow it to a tree. Move right above the tree and then climb the wall above to reach the right-hand of two grooves (peg). Climb the groove to a small tree just above a horizontal break. Head out right along the break and make some long moves to a good ledge, from where easier ground gains a bolted belay. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The first pitch starts with a difficult semi-mantle onto a sloping hold then presses on steeply to the belay. The moves off the belay on the second pitch are difficult and precarious (take care) but lead to lovely open and bold climbing on the left side of the upper wall. A route at the high end of the grade overall.

J Willson, S R Smith 24/Oct/1979.

Ticklists

Orange Spot Lower Wye , Ultimate HVS ticklist , Wye's it a trad classic (up to HVS)? , CC Wye Valley and Forest of Dean trad stars, blue list (VS and HVS) , The post lockdown local list , 23 HVS routes for 2023

Feedback

User Date Notes
inglesp 23 Aug, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: "Head out right along the break" -- note that this does not mean hand-traverse right onto the E2!
Show beta
βeta: "Head out right along the break" -- note that this does not mean hand-traverse right onto the E2!
alasdaircavaye 1 Aug, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: P1 anchor is (old) pegs and old static, no rings for ab. If you don't have long enough ropes to go all the way down we were able to traverse right (facing wall), redirect around two good trees to get to the bolted anchors of Never Say Never Again.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: P1 anchor is (old) pegs and old static, no rings for ab. If you don't have long enough ropes to go all the way down we were able to traverse right (facing wall), redirect around two good trees to get to the bolted anchors of Never Say Never Again.
ChloeJ 27 Jul, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Recommend bringing micro wires and cams for P2. Nightmare pulling the ropes down in the dark, would do a second ab if I were to repeat. ‘Tunnel through a band of trees’ is certainly what it is, lots of places for your knot to get stuck in.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Recommend bringing micro wires and cams for P2. Nightmare pulling the ropes down in the dark, would do a second ab if I were to repeat. ‘Tunnel through a band of trees’ is certainly what it is, lots of places for your knot to get stuck in.
brian watson 15 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: P2. run out on 2nd pitch, after the crux. Although climbing is very good.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: P2. run out on 2nd pitch, after the crux. Although climbing is very good.
Andre Clarke 15 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: 3rd pitch seem quite run out protection
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: 3rd pitch seem quite run out protection

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 75
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 86
Votes cast 83
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Bouldered
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Dogged
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Organ Grinder

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Shorn Cliff)

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