35m, 2 pitches.
Approach as for Delicious. Pitch descriptions:
35 metres, E3 5b. Start 3 metres right of the start of Delicious, behind the sawed down stump of a small tree, at a black rib. Climb the rib and the thin crack above to good holds and then move up and right onto the ledge. Now traverse right until a couple of metres right of the 2 bolt belay of Delicious, above a small tree and under the black overhang. Climb the wall above with nice moves until under the black overhang, peg. Cross the overhang on its right hand side then follow the easy groove above to ledges. There is an in situ crowbar on the left (spike runner, possible abseil which renders the route E2 5b). There is also a dirty break, and a good thin crack to the right. Above there is a steep wall under a bush. Climb the wall past a couple of jugs, then make tricky moves up and right to small positive holds on a bulge.
Now reach right round the arête, then up to juggy rock and a small sapling. Now step right past the sapling and mantle carefully onto a ledge. Move carefully up and left onto the large pillar (big spike runner or big wires). Finally rock over onto the earthy platform above and finish at a abseil station on small trees, on a ledge a few metres below the top. Abseil back to the right end of the broad starting platform (tricky) or straight down to the bottom of the quarry (60 metre ropes required). I reported this route on 020114 with John Prestley, but today ( 110114) I climbed it with the new start, I didn't clip any of the bolts on Delicious and climbed the remaining 12 metres above the crowbar ledge as described to make the pitch E3. Its also worth mentioning that the small trees on the broad starting platform were sawed down and carried away by a grumpy sport climber today, thus making anchors for belays a bit harder but not impossible. Any other submissions I have made mentioning these small trees on the starting plattorm, please change to stumps.Additional info:
Route was cleaned on abseil, then lead climbed with all gear being placed on the lead apart from the peg and crowbar which are in-situ.
35 metres, E3 5b. Start 3 metres right of the start of Delicious, behind the sawed down stump of a small tree, at a black rib. Climb the rib and the thin crack above to good holds and then move up and right onto the ledge. Now traverse right until a couple of metres right of the 2 bolt belay of Delicious, above a small tree and under the black overhang. Climb the wall above with nice moves until under the black overhang, peg. Cross the overhang on its right hand side then follow the easy groove above to ledges. There is an in situ crowbar on the left (spike runner, possible abseil which renders the route E2 5b). There is also a dirty break, and a good thin crack to the right. Above there is a steep wall under a bush. Climb the wall past a couple of jugs, then make tricky moves up and right to small positive holds on a bulge.
Now reach right round the arête, then up to juggy rock and a small sapling. Now step right past the sapling and mantle carefully onto a ledge. Move carefully up and left onto the large pillar (big spike runner or big wires). Finally rock over onto the earthy platform above and finish at a abseil station on small trees, on a ledge a few metres below the top. Abseil back to the right end of the broad starting platform (tricky) or straight down to the bottom of the quarry (60 metre ropes required). I reported this route on 020114 with John Prestley, but today ( 110114) I climbed it with the new start, I didn't clip any of the bolts on Delicious and climbed the remaining 12 metres above the crowbar ledge as described to make the pitch E3. Its also worth mentioning that the small trees on the broad starting platform were sawed down and carried away by a grumpy sport climber today, thus making anchors for belays a bit harder but not impossible. Any other submissions I have made mentioning these small trees on the starting plattorm, please change to stumps.Additional info:
Route was cleaned on abseil, then lead climbed with all gear being placed on the lead apart from the peg and crowbar which are in-situ.
Gavin Cytlau, Adam Parslow, John Presley 11/Jan/2014.
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Gavin Cytlau | 12 Jul, 2024 |
Show βeta
βeta: Back to Woodcroft to clean up and re climb Crowbar Yoga, E2. I placed 2 extra pegs under the black roof and replaced one of the 2 on it, aswell as another to back the bar up. I re climbed the E2 section up to the crowbar lead rope solo then abseiled off. The upper E3 section I began to clean and added a peg on the bulge but will have to go back to finish it off as I ran out of time. On the abseil down I reached over for a brand new blue DMM Alpha quickdraw left on Delicious, if it’s yours get in touch you can have it back ?. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Back to Woodcroft to clean up and re climb Crowbar Yoga, E2. I placed 2 extra pegs under the black roof and replaced one of the 2 on it, aswell as another to back the bar up. I re climbed the E2 section up to the crowbar lead rope solo then abseiled off. The upper E3 section I began to clean and added a peg on the bulge but will have to go back to finish it off as I ran out of time. On the abseil down I reached over for a brand new blue DMM Alpha quickdraw left on Delicious, if it’s yours get in touch you can have it back ?. |
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Route of Interest
Vulture Squadron
Grade: E3 6a ***
(Wintour's Leap)