Rockfax Description
Continuously loose and could be dangerous - you have been warned! Start on the huge flat ledge.
1) 4c, 10m. Head up the wall to a ledge and follow this right until the large belay ledge above can be gained and a bolted belay.
2) 6a, 25m. Climb up and then left before continuing to a short finish wall on better rock. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
See http://www.climbers-club.co.uk/newroutes/nr-sw-lowerwyevalley.html

This takes an unhealthy line up the central part of the repellent, blocky grey wall. Its appearance is not deceptive (some long quick-draws useful). Start from the middle of the broad platform.


Pitch descriptions:

1. 10m F4. Climb a short bare wall to a ledge and traverse this rightwards carefully until it is possible to step up onto an ample belay ledge and 2BB.

2. 25m F6a MXS. Follow the line of bolt runners as closely as possible and try to avoid touching too much of the surroundings. Climb directly above the belay, very gently, then, after the third bolt, swing left to better holds. Continue straight up to a ledge exercising greater caution than mass and take a welcome rest. The worst is now over; after a few more moves better rock presents itself and the finish is a pleasure.

Gordon Jenkin, Tony Penning (both led), Yvonne Jones, Ali Taylor 25/May/2009.

Ticklists

Woodcroft Sport Climbs , All multi-pitch sport routes (England and Wales)

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