UKC

35m, 2 pitches. See http://www.climbers-club.co.uk/newroutes/nr-sw-lowerwyevalley.html

This takes an unhealthy line up the central part of the repellent, blocky grey wall. Its appearance is not deceptive (some long quick-draws useful). Start from the middle of the broad platform.


Pitch descriptions:

1. 10m F4. Climb a short bare wall to a ledge and traverse this rightwards carefully until it is possible to step up onto an ample belay ledge and 2BB.

2. 25m F6a MXS. Follow the line of bolt runners as closely as possible and try to avoid touching too much of the surroundings. Climb directly above the belay, very gently, then, after the third bolt, swing left to better holds. Continue straight up to a ledge exercising greater caution than mass and take a welcome rest. The worst is now over; after a few more moves better rock presents itself and the finish is a pleasure.

Gordon Jenkin, Tony Penning (both led), Yvonne Jones, Ali Taylor 25/May/2009.

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