UKC

Restricted Access

Fly Wall and Woodcroft Quarry: the current owners have not given permission to climb on this section of crag. If you do climb on this part of the crag, please be careful not to damage any fences in the area.

GO Wall: topping out now allowed year round for all routes from Feline/Jackal leftwards. King Kong ab. bolts removed. No topping out any time for right hand end – ab. stations in place where required. A large rockfall has recently (Jan 2013) been reported at the righthand side of the Pedestal on Go Wall - care should be taken with any remaining loose rock that may still be in place in this area.

North Wall: following a change of ownership of the house above this section of crag, the previous arrangement to exit through it’s garden is not longer possible. Please do not top out on any North Wall routes - only abseil descent from below the top of the crag is allowed. For those who don't wan't to climb above the Great Ledge, an abseil descent can be made from one of the two bolted abseil stations above The Tap or Joe’s Route. Two further abseil stations have been established just below the top of North Wall (using rope slings and rings around trees) allowing the last pitch of the more popular routes to be climbed and an abseil descent to the Great Ledge be made. 

All rock north of the North Buttress and south of Fly Wall is privately owned and all climbing is prohibited.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 15 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ravens nesting on Wurlitzer. The restriction applies to all routes on Fly Wall between Flypast and Gendarmerie.

Peregrines nesting on North Wall. Avoid top pitches of Left Hand Route (from the great ledge)

 

NOTICE: 30th April 2024 - Peregrines have been reported to be nesting on King King. Please avoid this area of the crag. It is likely that the crag restriction will be amended once it is confirmed if this is North Wall pair, or an additional pair.

30m.

Rockfax Description
Good climbing and protection potential. Start as for Freedom. Climb to a pocket and a couple of metres higher head left to a right-facing slim corner that leads to the midway ledge. Move left to a tree and then climb straight up past a hole to a crack. Ascend the crack and where it ends make some exposed moves up a short rib to reach the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Well protected and amenable for the grade.

Start at the base of freedom, climb for about 5 metres until heading diagonally left to a ledge and a small tree on the left.

From under the tree climb the crack almost directly up (Phoenix is on your left). After a short layback section you reach easier ground and top out.

Ticklists

CC Wye Valley and Forest of Dean trad stars, blue list (VS and HVS) , 23 HVS routes for 2023

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Logged Ascents

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 40
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 35
Votes cast 35
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
No Musketeers

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Shorn Cliff)

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