UKC

2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
The first pitch is a bit earthy. Start just left of a small tree at ledges leading to a wide corner-crack.
1) 4b, 13m. Gain the crack at the top of the earthy ledges and bridge it to the midway ledge. Peg and nut belays.
2) 5b, 12m. Ascend the short wall to a ledge and move right to a slim corner. Climb the corner past a peg with difficulty to an overhang. Pass the overhang on the right and finish leftwards. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Start right of Moth at the large crack. Bridge either side of this to the terrace. 2 peg belay. Move up to the ledge above (stuck micro nut and rusty peg). Move up with delicate feet past the peg to block and overhang (surmount on the right). Move easily to the top and block belays.

Ticklists

CC Wye Valley and Forest of Dean trad stars, blue list (VS and HVS) , Wye Valley Starred E1-E3

Feedback

User Date Notes
mikedunk 13 Jan, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Some loose bits and pieces getting into the initial groove
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Some loose bits and pieces getting into the initial groove
BStar 15 Apr, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Stuck micro wire has now been removed.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Stuck micro wire has now been removed.

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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 25
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 24
Votes cast 21
Style of Ascent
Lead
Alt Leads
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
DNF
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
King Kong

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Wintour's Leap)

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