Rockfax Description
The first pitch is a bit earthy. Start just left of a small tree at ledges leading to a wide corner-crack.
1) 4b, 13m. Gain the crack at the top of the earthy ledges and bridge it to the midway ledge. Peg and nut belays.
2) 5b, 12m. Ascend the short wall to a ledge and move right to a slim corner. Climb the corner past a peg with difficulty to an overhang. Pass the overhang on the right and finish leftwards. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Start right of Moth at the large crack. Bridge either side of this to the terrace. 2 peg belay. Move up to the ledge above (stuck micro nut and rusty peg). Move up with delicate feet past the peg to block and overhang (surmount on the right). Move easily to the top and block belays.
CC Wye Valley and Forest of Dean trad stars, blue list (VS and HVS) , Wye Valley Starred E1-E3
User | Date | Notes | ||
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mikedunk | 13 Jan, 2023 |
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βeta: Some loose bits and pieces getting into the initial groove | βeta? | |
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βeta: Some loose bits and pieces getting into the initial groove |
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BStar | 15 Apr, 2021 |
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βeta: Stuck micro wire has now been removed. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Stuck micro wire has now been removed. |
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Grade: E1 5b ***
(Wintour's Leap)