UKC

42m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
Good technical climbing with some fixed gear that can be backed-up. Start 3m right of the corner at a right-leading crack.
1) 5b, 14m. Follow the right-leading crack to a ledge and continue up the multi-pocketed crack above it to the midway ledge. Belay below a corner capped by a large overhang.
2) 6a, 15m. Gain and climb the corner to the overhang. Traverse left to clear the overhang and finish up the wall past a thread. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
P1 5b Start 3m right of the corner of Bulging Flies. Climb to a break then step up and right onto a vegetated ledge. Climb the pocketed crack to the terrace (opposing nut belay).
P2 6a Climb up to the open groove and climb it to a good hold above the peg. Step left and climb the wall above by a hard pull past a in-situ thread (6a).

R A Harrison, G Forward (P1- A Strapcans, C King 1978, P2 was originally climbed at A2 by G Farnsworth, Miss G Pemberton & C McDonald on 2/9/1967) 1979.

Feedback

User Date Notes
Lankcroft 20 May, 2024 Show βeta
βeta: Pegs in decent condition (probably not replaced in the big effort last year though), and can also be backed up with other gear. Top thread a bit manky, but also not critical (good peg and cams just below). P1 needs a clean - we did our best with the nut key, but really some proper gardening tools would be better!
Show beta
βeta: Pegs in decent condition (probably not replaced in the big effort last year though), and can also be backed up with other gear. Top thread a bit manky, but also not critical (good peg and cams just below). P1 needs a clean - we did our best with the nut key, but really some proper gardening tools would be better!
jsmcfarland 10 Aug, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Nut belays at start of P2 are becoming seriously worn and not really in great condition. Piton mentioned in book also absent. Pitons on route are looking quite rusty but probably would hold soft catches (backup placements available)
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Nut belays at start of P2 are becoming seriously worn and not really in great condition. Piton mentioned in book also absent. Pitons on route are looking quite rusty but probably would hold soft catches (backup placements available)
plant_based_tommo 9 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: In situ gear condition and some vague gear beta: the three pegs on p2 don\'t inspire much confidence but can be backed up with small offset wires and a good selection of cams. A size red camalot or dragon (or two) will make the top crux safe incase the fixed gear were to fail. the in situ thread looked acceptable July 2019.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: In situ gear condition and some vague gear beta: the three pegs on p2 don't inspire much confidence but can be backed up with small offset wires and a good selection of cams. A size red camalot or dragon (or two) will make the top crux safe incase the fixed gear were to fail. the in situ thread looked acceptable July 2019.

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Voting
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 11
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 11
Votes cast 10
Style of Ascent
Lead
Alt Leads
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
DNF
Redpoint
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
Vulture Squadron

Grade: E3 6a ***
(Wintour's Leap)

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