UKC

30m.

Rockfax Description
A classic and no pushover. Start at the front of the pillar.
1) 4b, 13m. Climb up past a pocket and then head up a slight groove to the midway ledge and belay.
2) 4c, 14m. The clean corner-crack leads to a capping overhang, from where a short but strenuous hand-traverse right gains the finishing corner of Swallow's Nest. Finish up the corner. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Orange Spot Lower Wye , But what have you done on South-East Wales Sandstone/Limestone? , Wye's it a trad classic (up to HVS)? , UK Sandbags , CC Wye Valley and Forest of Dean trad stars, blue list (VS and HVS) , Bristol Area Easy Trad Ticklist , Desperate for Crack (near Bristol) , Road to lundy , First trad routes , Wintour's leap

Feedback

User Date Notes
strawberry girl 24 Sep, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: A chunk moved on the thread on P1 when I removed a sling, and there is a loose block just below the first belay that looks like it is used as a handhold - be very careful!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A chunk moved on the thread on P1 when I removed a sling, and there is a loose block just below the first belay that looks like it is used as a handhold - be very careful!
paul wood 8 Apr, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Take care with the rock immediately before the big ledge (or belay if doing it in 2 pitches) A good amount of it now vibrates and might collapse at some point.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Take care with the rock immediately before the big ledge (or belay if doing it in 2 pitches) A good amount of it now vibrates and might collapse at some point.
Tom courtiour 22 Aug, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: I surmounted the block traverse to avoid the polish. It was well awkward ????
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I surmounted the block traverse to avoid the polish. It was well awkward ????

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 143
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 133
Votes cast 133
Style of Ascent
Lead
Alt Leads
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
The Angel's Girdle

Grade: VS 5a ***
(Wintour's Leap)

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