UKC

26m.

Rockfax Description
An exciting and very exposed variation finish on the original line. Start as for Freedom.
1) 4b, 13m. Freedom pitch 1.
2) 5b, 13m. Climb the clean corner-crack to the roof. Pull up right to a flake and small ledge. Finish up the arete. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
CAUTION: This route is quite serious for the grade.
Climb the first pitch of Freedom.
On the second pitch, instead of taking the right traverse into Swallow's Nest continue to the top of the flake and climb the arete until you top out.

Ticklists

UK Sandbags , Wye Valley Starred E1-E3

Feedback

User Date Notes
EyebrowTom 22 May Show βeta
βeta: Small wires are available in bottom of flake crack. Not that inspiring given how committing the next section of climbing is. E1,5b is fair.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Small wires are available in bottom of flake crack. Not that inspiring given how committing the next section of climbing is. E1,5b is fair.
Rick Sewards 30 Nov, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: The guide suggests small wires can be found in the cracks above the ledge - I could not find anything trustworthy (and I spent a very long time trying - my partners will know what \"a very long time\" means!) However, if you reach down you can get a good hidden small wire in the crack on the left (the continuation of the Freedom crack)
Show beta
βeta: The guide suggests small wires can be found in the cracks above the ledge - I could not find anything trustworthy (and I spent a very long time trying - my partners will know what "a very long time" means!) However, if you reach down you can get a good hidden small wire in the crack on the left (the continuation of the Freedom crack)
Gary Gibson 24 Aug, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: First ascent GaryGibson Adam Hudson
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: First ascent GaryGibson Adam Hudson

Logged Ascents

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High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 24
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 24
Votes cast 20
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
DNF
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
King Kong

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Wintour's Leap)

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