UKC

Restricted Access

Fly Wall and Woodcroft Quarry: the current owners have not given permission to climb on this section of crag. If you do climb on this part of the crag, please be careful not to damage any fences in the area.

GO Wall: topping out now allowed year round for all routes from Feline/Jackal leftwards. King Kong ab. bolts removed. No topping out any time for right hand end – ab. stations in place where required. A large rockfall has recently (Jan 2013) been reported at the righthand side of the Pedestal on Go Wall - care should be taken with any remaining loose rock that may still be in place in this area.

North Wall: following a change of ownership of the house above this section of crag, the previous arrangement to exit through it’s garden is not longer possible. Please do not top out on any North Wall routes - only abseil descent from below the top of the crag is allowed. For those who don't wan't to climb above the Great Ledge, an abseil descent can be made from one of the two bolted abseil stations above The Tap or Joe’s Route. Two further abseil stations have been established just below the top of North Wall (using rope slings and rings around trees) allowing the last pitch of the more popular routes to be climbed and an abseil descent to the Great Ledge be made. 

All rock north of the North Buttress and south of Fly Wall is privately owned and all climbing is prohibited.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 15 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ravens nesting on Wurlitzer. The restriction applies to all routes on Fly Wall between Flypast and Gendarmerie.

Peregrines nesting on North Wall. Avoid top pitches of Left Hand Route (from the great ledge)

 

NOTICE: 30th April 2024 - Peregrines have been reported to be nesting on King King. Please avoid this area of the crag. It is likely that the crag restriction will be amended once it is confirmed if this is North Wall pair, or an additional pair.

26m.

Rockfax Description
An exciting and very exposed variation finish on the original line. Start as for Freedom.
1) 4b, 13m. Freedom pitch 1.
2) 5b, 13m. Climb the clean corner-crack to the roof. Pull up right to a flake and small ledge. Finish up the arete. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
CAUTION: This route is quite serious for the grade.
Climb the first pitch of Freedom.
On the second pitch, instead of taking the right traverse into Swallow's Nest continue to the top of the flake and climb the arete until you top out.

Ticklists

UK Sandbags , Wye Valley Starred E1-E3

Feedback

User Date Notes
EyebrowTom 22 May Show βeta
βeta: Small wires are available in bottom of flake crack. Not that inspiring given how committing the next section of climbing is. E1,5b is fair.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Small wires are available in bottom of flake crack. Not that inspiring given how committing the next section of climbing is. E1,5b is fair.
Rick Sewards 30 Nov, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: The guide suggests small wires can be found in the cracks above the ledge - I could not find anything trustworthy (and I spent a very long time trying - my partners will know what \"a very long time\" means!) However, if you reach down you can get a good hidden small wire in the crack on the left (the continuation of the Freedom crack)
Show beta
βeta: The guide suggests small wires can be found in the cracks above the ledge - I could not find anything trustworthy (and I spent a very long time trying - my partners will know what "a very long time" means!) However, if you reach down you can get a good hidden small wire in the crack on the left (the continuation of the Freedom crack)
Gary Gibson 24 Aug, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: First ascent GaryGibson Adam Hudson
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: First ascent GaryGibson Adam Hudson

Logged Ascents

120 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Wintour's Leap

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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 23
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 23
Votes cast 20
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
DNF
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Wurlitzer

Grade: E1 5c ***
(Wintour's Leap)

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