Rockfax Description
A great multi-pitch sport climb. The first pitch is a very popular challenge in its own right. Begin at a series of left-facing blind corners that are usually very well chalked.
1) 7a, 24m. Highly technical moves are need to exit the corners, from where wall climbing leads past a double-bolt lower-off (used for those doing the first pitch only) to a belay at a tree.
2) 6c, 10m. Climb right of the bolt and then the crack above to a large ledge that runs under the upper walls. Climbing directly past the bolt is much harder than 6c. Belay on the right.
3) 7a, 17m. Climb the steep crack on the right to a break and then pull up left to a groove. Follow the wall above to a ledge and bolt belay.
4) 4c, 9m. Take the line of bolts heading leftwards to a belay and abseil point (shared with Kaiser Wall). © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Former E5, now fully bolted.
F7a,F6c+,F7a,F5.
First Pitch is the best, 2nd pitch is desperate trying to go direct over the bolt on the slab, can take it a lot easier further right but a bit off route.
Third pitch is a soft touch 7a but again really good.
Final pitch is loose.
Gary Gibson with Matt Ward.
Ticklists
Classic UK F7s , Becky's ticklist , CoT Wye Valley Mileage #Levelup expansion pack , All multi-pitch sport routes (England and Wales) , 7As with stars near Bristol
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Strife | 16 Mar |
Show βeta
βeta: Tat at the top of P2 is gone. Either take up some new tat or a couple of small/medium cams. The belay can also be backed up by the first bolt of P3. 80m rope can get you down in 2 raps, it just about reaches the P1 abseil station from the top of P4 | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Tat at the top of P2 is gone. Either take up some new tat or a couple of small/medium cams. The belay can also be backed up by the first bolt of P3. 80m rope can get you down in 2 raps, it just about reaches the P1 abseil station from the top of P4 |
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| Gary Gibson | 9 Oct, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: First ascent GaryGibson with Matt ward | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: First ascent GaryGibson with Matt ward |
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| eric_in_cheddar | 20 Jun, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: Not fully bolted. End of P1 has a substantial easy section that's a bit crumbly protected by two old pegs. Start of P2 has a nastily high first bolt above the tree belay (wires on the right), followed by a new peg and then an old peg. Belay on the ledge at end of P2 is crappy old tat: back it up by reaching up to the first bolt of P3. You might find a wire useful before bolt 4 on P3. Take some small wires, and take a couple of slings for belaying off the oak tree at the end of P1. Use 50 metre double ropes to clip bolts and wires as needed and also to get to the ground from the ab station on the right (facing in) of the ledge from which P3 starts. | ||
|
Show beta
βeta: Not fully bolted. End of P1 has a substantial easy section that's a bit crumbly protected by two old pegs. Start of P2 has a nastily high first bolt above the tree belay (wires on the right), followed by a new peg and then an old peg. Belay on the ledge at end of P2 is crappy old tat: back it up by reaching up to the first bolt of P3. You might find a wire useful before bolt 4 on P3. Take some small wires, and take a couple of slings for belaying off the oak tree at the end of P1. Use 50 metre double ropes to clip bolts and wires as needed and also to get to the ground from the ab station on the right (facing in) of the ledge from which P3 starts. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Wintour's Leap
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Pet Cemetery
Grade: 7a ***
(Ban-y-gor)