A phenomenal second pitch. Start at a groove left of the corner crack at the start of The Jackal.
1) 5b, 20m. Climb the groove for 10m and step right onto its right rib. Move up and back left (peg) and then on up past a borehole strike to a ledge and peg and nut belay.
2) 6a, 50m. Ascend the slight, black-streaked groove all the way to the red band under the main line of overhangs and make steep moves up a crack above it to a widening (junction with Kangaroo Wall). Traverse right for 3m to a groove and bridge up this via some technical moves to a break. Go back left for 2m and pull over a bulge and get established in the groove above. The groove leads leftwards to meet the final moves of Kangaroo Wall's third pitch that is followed to its belay on the terrace.
3) 5b, 10m. The steep groove and crack above it has a difficult initial section but eases above. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
A superb route with a big feel which weaves its way up GO wall - take plenty of gear and long extenders. The starting groove is just to the right of a smooth wall which has an old peg about 5m up it.
P1 5b Climb the groove for 10m then move right onto the rib (cam) then back left and up to a vertical shot hole. Climb straight up the wall ( a bit dirty) to a ledge and peg & nut belays.
P2 6a Climb a shallow groove behind the belay then the wall above to the Umbrella Girdle break. Pull through a bulge to the foot of a chimney on Kangeroo Wall. Instead of climbing the chimney traverse right along a break (on Vulture Squadron) for 3 metres into a groove. Bridge up this (hard at the top) to a roof. Traverse left to the foot of another V groove. Pull into this then easing climbing leads up to a finish up an earthy bank.
P3 Climbs cracks above the belay, but is very overgrown.
P R Littlejohn, C King 29/Nov/1977.
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