UKC

21m. A very fine climb, high in the technical grade. The large bare wall right of the Big Fly Direct corner gives an unnerving lead to an exciting finish through the overhangs above. Climb the corner to a pocket at 4 metres. Move left via a good flake to get engaged in the centre of the bare wall, and make some committing moves up to and past 2 pegs and a thread to reach the upper terrace. Move right, place what protection you can, and pull onto a blunt rib using a poor pocket (crux). Move up and pull up left past an overhang into the hanging groove, which leads with good holds to a tree belay. *CC Lower Wye Valley Guide*

Gary Gibson 13/Feb/1983.

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Route of Interest

The Reubenite

Grade: E5 5c ***
(Huntsham Crags)
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