UKC

Restricted Access

Fly Wall and Woodcroft Quarry: the current owners have not given permission to climb on this section of crag. If you do climb on this part of the crag, please be careful not to damage any fences in the area.

GO Wall: topping out now allowed year round for all routes from Feline/Jackal leftwards. King Kong ab. bolts removed. No topping out any time for right hand end – ab. stations in place where required. A large rockfall has recently (Jan 2013) been reported at the righthand side of the Pedestal on Go Wall - care should be taken with any remaining loose rock that may still be in place in this area.

North Wall: following a change of ownership of the house above this section of crag, the previous arrangement to exit through it’s garden is not longer possible. Please do not top out on any North Wall routes - only abseil descent from below the top of the crag is allowed. For those who don't wan't to climb above the Great Ledge, an abseil descent can be made from one of the two bolted abseil stations above The Tap or Joe’s Route. Two further abseil stations have been established just below the top of North Wall (using rope slings and rings around trees) allowing the last pitch of the more popular routes to be climbed and an abseil descent to the Great Ledge be made. 

All rock north of the North Buttress and south of Fly Wall is privately owned and all climbing is prohibited.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 15 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ravens nesting on Wurlitzer. The restriction applies to all routes on Fly Wall between Flypast and Gendarmerie.

Peregrines nesting on North Wall. Avoid top pitches of Left Hand Route (from the great ledge)

 

NOTICE: 30th April 2024 - Peregrines have been reported to be nesting on King King. Please avoid this area of the crag. It is likely that the crag restriction will be amended once it is confirmed if this is North Wall pair, or an additional pair.

18m.

Rockfax Description
The horizontally banded wall moving slightly rightwards on the upper half to a lower-off. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Woodcroft Quarry, Upper Lift. This is the right-hand of two new bolted routes on the short, reddish wall left of Industrial Disease.

Gordon Jenkin, Cathal Connern 22/Jul/2016.

Feedback

User Date Notes
Mattie James 6 Feb, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Has been re bolted lower down with a separate line up to third bolt due to broken holds on the original line. This is arguably a better climb but all in all likelihood easier and probably a 5 or 5+
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Has been re bolted lower down with a separate line up to third bolt due to broken holds on the original line. This is arguably a better climb but all in all likelihood easier and probably a 5 or 5+
T-Dog 27 Mar, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Confusing line as it seems there is a second line of bolts a bit further to the left leading to the same anchor.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Confusing line as it seems there is a second line of bolts a bit further to the left leading to the same anchor.

Logged Ascents

227 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Wintour's Leap

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Votes cast 5
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