UKC

Rockfax Description
Like its namesake this is a big brute of a route that is a classic tick, although the amount of vegetation and unsound rock in places can detract from what is a phenomenal line and experience. Start under the left facing corner that runs all the wall up the GO Wall.
1) 5b, 40m. Move steeply up into the smooth walled corner and jam up this over a small overhang and reach less pressing ground (an alternative is to move right just under the small overhang and then up and back left). Continue up the groove (peg) until it narrows after 12m, and then transfer right to the arete before taking a slab up leftwards (peg) to twin slightly diverging cracks. Follow the twin cracks to the terrace and belay.
2) 5b, 40m. Head up the crack just left of the corner and pass the overhang with some difficulty to easier ground. The corner above needs care with the rock and at its top exit up earth, trees and vegetation onto the terrace and take abelay on threads under a chimney in a corner.
3) 10m. The chimney and its left wall lead without great difficulty to the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
5b,5a,-.

Involved E1 climbing. The harder sections are very well protected but there is a lot of loose rock on the first pitch (which is a real rope stretcher).

Ticklists

100 best limestone climbs in Britain, But what have you done on South-East Wales Sandstone/Limestone?, Wye Valley 10 x 10, Coronation Street, Bristol Crack School, Cool Names, 31 By 31, Classic Rock Climbs in Southern England by Bill Birkett

Feedback

User Date Notes
Bruise Apprentice 3 Jun Show βeta
βeta: The shattered pillar that forms the left of the two cracks at the top of P1 is quite unstable. Sticking to the right hand crack is safe 5b climbing.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The shattered pillar that forms the left of the two cracks at the top of P1 is quite unstable. Sticking to the right hand crack is safe 5b climbing.
widdlestickmcpoos 23 Apr Show βeta
βeta: Climbing through the buddleia wasn't fun, the next ascensionist would do their civic duty by taking a small saw. First pitch was stiff.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Climbing through the buddleia wasn't fun, the next ascensionist would do their civic duty by taking a small saw. First pitch was stiff.
Flyer from Fulham 8 Apr Show βeta
βeta: Lower jamming section (4 meters) is dirty and polished. Tree/bush has been knocked downwards and blocks the roof section above. You can avoid this by moving out right, there is a peg and nut placements, but there are also some loose holds.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Lower jamming section (4 meters) is dirty and polished. Tree/bush has been knocked downwards and blocks the roof section above. You can avoid this by moving out right, there is a peg and nut placements, but there are also some loose holds.
Steve Bartle 5 Aug, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Whoever belays P1 should stay well under the big roof, as there's some very precarious large blocks above the first crack. Belaying under the crack itself means you in the firing line!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Whoever belays P1 should stay well under the big roof, as there's some very precarious large blocks above the first crack. Belaying under the crack itself means you in the firing line!
badgerjockey 25 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Possible to ab after P2 (decent ab tat. Aim for glue-in belay of Heil Hitler left of P1 belay).
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Possible to ab after P2 (decent ab tat. Aim for glue-in belay of Heil Hitler left of P1 belay).
badgerjockey 24 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Pesky buddleia is in the way of the true line forcing the common diversion rightwards for a few metres after the jam crack. Would be worth chopping this to clean the route up. The buddleia might even be prying apart the cliff here! It must die!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Pesky buddleia is in the way of the true line forcing the common diversion rightwards for a few metres after the jam crack. Would be worth chopping this to clean the route up. The buddleia might even be prying apart the cliff here! It must die!
brian watson 12 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: P1&3. What was/would undeniably be a mega classic has such a loose sh**y section in the middle (although easy), can't be 3 stars in current condition.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: P1&3. What was/would undeniably be a mega classic has such a loose sh**y section in the middle (although easy), can't be 3 stars in current condition.

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High E3
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Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 116
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 117
Votes cast 116
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
DNF
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

No Musketeers (Direct Finish)

Grade: E1 5c ***
(Shorn Cliff)
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