UKC

Restricted Access

Fly Wall and Woodcroft Quarry: the current owners have not given permission to climb on this section of crag. If you do climb on this part of the crag, please be careful not to damage any fences in the area.

GO Wall: topping out now allowed year round for all routes from Feline/Jackal leftwards. King Kong ab. bolts removed. No topping out any time for right hand end – ab. stations in place where required. A large rockfall has recently (Jan 2013) been reported at the righthand side of the Pedestal on Go Wall - care should be taken with any remaining loose rock that may still be in place in this area.

North Wall: following a change of ownership of the house above this section of crag, the previous arrangement to exit through it’s garden is not longer possible. Please do not top out on any North Wall routes - only abseil descent from below the top of the crag is allowed. For those who don't wan't to climb above the Great Ledge, an abseil descent can be made from one of the two bolted abseil stations above The Tap or Joe’s Route. Two further abseil stations have been established just below the top of North Wall (using rope slings and rings around trees) allowing the last pitch of the more popular routes to be climbed and an abseil descent to the Great Ledge be made. 

All rock north of the North Buttress and south of Fly Wall is privately owned and all climbing is prohibited.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 15 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ravens nesting on Wurlitzer. The restriction applies to all routes on Fly Wall between Flypast and Gendarmerie.

Peregrins nesting on North Wall. Avoid top pithes of left hand route (from the great ledge)

Rockfax Description
A hard upper pitch with a perplexing sequence and difficult route finding. Start where the path regains the face at a slabby area.
1) 5b, 26m. Head rightwards to some blocks and follow these to below a long overhang. Go left for 2m and pass the overhang to reach a good hold. Continue up thin cracks and a corner to the midway ledge and belay.
2) 6a, 23m. Right of the belay, make some steep pulls to gain the horizontal break and traverse left to a block. A perplexing sequence to stand on the block can prove a stopper move for some. Once on the block, move up to a thread (in situ) and then left to a corner and take this to a horizontal break and overhang. Traverse right and finish up a corner. © Rockfax

Feedback

User Date Notes
Gary Gibson 24 Aug, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: First ascent GaryGibson
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: First ascent GaryGibson
Deema Mozayen 30 Jul, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: I would definitely consider taking a knee-pad for a decent rest after the traverse. Would need to work out the following moves though before a proper attempt.
Show beta
βeta: I would definitely consider taking a knee-pad for a decent rest after the traverse. Would need to work out the following moves though before a proper attempt.

Logged Ascents

35 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Wintour's Leap

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Voting
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 5
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 6
Votes cast 4
Style of Ascent
Lead
Alt Leads
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Dogged
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest
Flies Aloft

Grade: E4 6a ***
(Wintour's Leap)

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