UKC

Restricted Access

Fly Wall and Woodcroft Quarry: the current owners have not given permission to climb on this section of crag. If you do climb on this part of the crag, please be careful not to damage any fences in the area.

GO Wall: topping out now allowed year round for all routes from Feline/Jackal leftwards. King Kong ab. bolts removed. No topping out any time for right hand end – ab. stations in place where required. A large rockfall has recently (Jan 2013) been reported at the righthand side of the Pedestal on Go Wall - care should be taken with any remaining loose rock that may still be in place in this area.

North Wall: following a change of ownership of the house above this section of crag, the previous arrangement to exit through it’s garden is not longer possible. Please do not top out on any North Wall routes - only abseil descent from below the top of the crag is allowed. For those who don't wan't to climb above the Great Ledge, an abseil descent can be made from one of the two bolted abseil stations above The Tap or Joe’s Route. Two further abseil stations have been established just below the top of North Wall (using rope slings and rings around trees) allowing the last pitch of the more popular routes to be climbed and an abseil descent to the Great Ledge be made. 

All rock north of the North Buttress and south of Fly Wall is privately owned and all climbing is prohibited.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 15 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ravens nesting on Wurlitzer. The restriction applies to all routes on Fly Wall between Flypast and Gendarmerie.

Peregrins nesting on North Wall. Avoid top pithes of left hand route (from the great ledge)

51m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
An impressive line at the grade. It features some hard climbing on its initial pitch and bolder but less difficult moves on the second pitch. Start 4m left of a plaque at the base of the wall.
1) 4b, 26m. Move up a few metres and then traverse right to below a groove with an overhang at its top. Head up to the overhang (peg) and pull up to reach flat holds above the overhang and then get established on the small ledge to its left – hard. Move up to a grassy ledge and from its right end climb up to below a borehole strike. Head up this and the short wall above to a comfortable stance, quarry spike and peg belays.
2) 4a, 25m. Move up to a peg (hidden) and then on up to a small tree and two pegs. Make a tricky move up and then left to attain a good ledge above the tree. Above this, a broad corner (started on the left) leads boldly past a small sapling for 8m to good ledges. Step up leftwards to below the left end of a narrow overlap and pull up past it to finish at some tree belays.
3) 18m. Head up ledges leftwards and pass an overhang to its left and gain a belay ledge.
4) 20m. Climb up and rightwards to a small overhang, trend rightwards, climbing a short wall and then follow the weakness to a bolted belay. Abseil descent from bolted belay. Do not climb higher than this point. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Wintours Leap easy multipitch , Orange Spot Lower Wye , Wintours Sub 4c Half km challenge , Wye's it a trad classic (up to HVS)? , CC Wye Valley and Forest of Dean trad stars, green list (HS and below) , The post lockdown local list , Bristol Area Easy Trad Ticklist , Wintour's leap

Feedback

User Date Notes
FelixC 4 Sep, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Rockfax (digital), at the time of writing, describes the start of the route as 4m left of a plaque. There are now 2 plaques and the start is at the BMC white/ red plaque.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Rockfax (digital), at the time of writing, describes the start of the route as 4m left of a plaque. There are now 2 plaques and the start is at the BMC white/ red plaque.
jon59 3 Jun, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: There has been some rock fall just after the start of the second pitch nothing that upsets the grade, just some small loose rocks on the ledges.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: There has been some rock fall just after the start of the second pitch nothing that upsets the grade, just some small loose rocks on the ledges.
OscarVanL 14 Feb, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Last 2 pitches are chossy and full of thorns. Abseil from Pitch 4 drops you straight into bushes and thorns. All ab points are bolted.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Last 2 pitches are chossy and full of thorns. Abseil from Pitch 4 drops you straight into bushes and thorns. All ab points are bolted.
KKormos 29 Jan, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Some brilliant moves getting over the roof on pitch 1.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Some brilliant moves getting over the roof on pitch 1.
jon59 5 Apr, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: New pegs throughout
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: New pegs throughout
Summit Sense 20 Oct, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: North Wall: following a change of ownership of the house above this section of crag, the previous arrangement to exit through it’s garden is not longer possible. Please do not top out on any North Wall routes - only abseil descent from below the top of the crag is allowed. For those who don't wan't to climb above the Great Ledge, an abseil descent can be made from one of the two bolted abseil stations above The Tap or Joe’s Route. Two further abseil stations have been established just below the top of North Wall (using rope slings and rings around trees) allowing the last pitch of the more popular routes to be climbed and an abseil descent to the Great Ledge be made.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: North Wall: following a change of ownership of the house above this section of crag, the previous arrangement to exit through it’s garden is not longer possible. Please do not top out on any North Wall routes - only abseil descent from below the top of the crag is allowed. For those who don't wan't to climb above the Great Ledge, an abseil descent can be made from one of the two bolted abseil stations above The Tap or Joe’s Route. Two further abseil stations have been established just below the top of North Wall (using rope slings and rings around trees) allowing the last pitch of the more popular routes to be climbed and an abseil descent to the Great Ledge be made.

Logged Ascents

983 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Wintour's Leap

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 204 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
Votes cast 123
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
Votes cast 116
Votes cast 114
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Zelda

Grade: HS 4b ***
(Wintour's Leap)

Loading Notifications...