UKC

51m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A very impressive line at the grade that features some hard climbing on its initial pitch and bolder but less difficult moves on the second pitch The routes original top pitch (3rd) is no longer available due to access considerations. High in the grade. Start 4m left of a plaque at the base of the wall.
1) 4b, 26m. Move up a few metres and then traverse right to below a groove with an overhang at its top. Head up to the overhang (peg) and pull up to reach flat holds above the overhang and then get established on the small ledge to its left – hard. Move up to a grassy ledge and from its right end climb up to below a bore-hole strike. Head up this and the short wall above to a comfortable stance, solid quarry spike and peg belays.
2) 4a, 25m. Move up to a peg (hidden) and then on up to a small tree and two pegs. Make a tricky move up and then left to attain a good ledge above the tree. Above is a broad corner that starting on the left leads boldly past a small sapling for 8m to good ledges. Step up leftwards to below the left end of a narrow overlap and pull up past it to finish at some tree belays. Walk off rightwards to the bolted abseil section: or walk a bit further and tackle the excellent final pitch of Right Hand Route. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Wintours Leap easy multipitch , Orange Spot Lower Wye , Wintours Sub 4c Half km challenge , Wye's it a trad classic (up to HVS)? , CC Wye Valley and Forest of Dean trad stars, green list (HS and below) , The post lockdown local list , Bristol Area Easy Trad Ticklist

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User Date Notes
jon59 5 Apr Show βeta
βeta: New pegs throughout
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: New pegs throughout
Bristol_Quornstar 20 Oct, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: North Wall: following a change of ownership of the house above this section of crag, the previous arrangement to exit through it’s garden is not longer possible. Please do not top out on any North Wall routes - only abseil descent from below the top of the crag is allowed. For those who don't wan't to climb above the Great Ledge, an abseil descent can be made from one of the two bolted abseil stations above The Tap or Joe’s Route. Two further abseil stations have been established just below the top of North Wall (using rope slings and rings around trees) allowing the last pitch of the more popular routes to be climbed and an abseil descent to the Great Ledge be made.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: North Wall: following a change of ownership of the house above this section of crag, the previous arrangement to exit through it’s garden is not longer possible. Please do not top out on any North Wall routes - only abseil descent from below the top of the crag is allowed. For those who don't wan't to climb above the Great Ledge, an abseil descent can be made from one of the two bolted abseil stations above The Tap or Joe’s Route. Two further abseil stations have been established just below the top of North Wall (using rope slings and rings around trees) allowing the last pitch of the more popular routes to be climbed and an abseil descent to the Great Ledge be made.

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Voting
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
Votes cast 111
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
Votes cast 106
Votes cast 103
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
DNF
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Zelda

Grade: HS 4b ***
(Wintour's Leap)

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