UKC

Rockfax Description
Three contrasting pitches. The start is bold to the first break but good protection is available after this. Start directly behind a tall tree, 5m right of a notice board bolted to the wall and left of a line of bolts. (The line of Never Say Never Again).
1) 5b, 26m. Climb boldly to a horizontal break and then up past more breaks to a peg. Head up and left to the base of an arete and a ledge. From a ledge above, pull out right (thread) and ascend on good holds to a ledge and peg belays.
2) 5b, 16m. From a block on the ledge, move up to a crack-line and follow it to its end under a wall (peg). Thin moves up the wall (peg) end under unstable ground, from where moves out left and up through trees and vegetation reach a tree belay at a corner.
3) 5c, 15m. Head up left to a left-leading groove (peg) and climb it (bolt) to a break. Continue up (peg) to a ledge and a bolted belay - shared with Cheetah. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
An exquisite climb, never really struggling for good protection (apart from first few moves). The last pitch is a dream. Looks much harder than it is. Once committed the moves appear.

Ticklists

Bristol Crack School , Wye Valley Starred E1-E3

Feedback

User Date Notes
gingernick 20 Apr, 2024 Show βeta
βeta: Gave pitches 1 & 2 a bit of pruning. Great climbing
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Gave pitches 1 & 2 a bit of pruning. Great climbing
plant_based_tommo 25 Jun, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Pegs and in situ thread were in good nick 25.06.23
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Pegs and in situ thread were in good nick 25.06.23

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Wintour's Leap

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Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 27
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 26
Votes cast 24
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
DNF
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
Run for Home

Grade: E2 5b ***
(Shorn Cliff)

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