Rockfax Description
Three contrasting pitches. The start is bold to the first break but good protection thereafter is available. Start directly behind a tall tree 5m right of a notice board bolted to the wall and left of a line of bolts. (The line of Never Say Never Again).
1) 5b, 26m. Climb boldly to a horizontal break and then up past more breaks to a peg. Head up and left to the base of an arete and a ledge. From a ledge above pull out right (thread) and ascend on good holds to a ledge and peg belays.
2) 5b, 16m. From a block on the ledge, move up to a crack-line and follow it to its end under a wall (peg). Thin moves up the wall (peg) end under unstable ground from where moves out left and up through trees and vegetation reach a tree belay at a corner.
3) 5c, 15m. Head up left to a left-leading groove (peg) and climb it (bolt) to a break. Continue up (peg) to a ledge and a bolted belay - shared with Cheetah. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
An exquisite climb, never really struggling for good protection (apart from first few moves). The last pitch is a dream. Looks much harder than it is. Once committed the moves appear.
Bristol Crack School , Wye Valley Starred E1-E3
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Grade: E2 5c ***
(Nailbridge)