Fly Wall and Woodcroft Quarry: the current owners have not given permission to climb on this section of crag. If you do climb on this part of the crag, please be careful not to damage any fences in the area.
GO Wall: topping out now allowed year round for all routes from Feline/Jackal leftwards. King Kong ab. bolts removed. No topping out any time for right hand end – ab. stations in place where required. A large rockfall has recently (Jan 2013) been reported at the righthand side of the Pedestal on Go Wall - care should be taken with any remaining loose rock that may still be in place in this area.
North Wall: following a change of ownership of the house above this section of crag, the previous arrangement to exit through it’s garden is not longer possible. Please do not top out on any North Wall routes - only abseil descent from below the top of the crag is allowed. For those who don't wan't to climb above the Great Ledge, an abseil descent can be made from one of the two bolted abseil stations above The Tap or Joe’s Route. Two further abseil stations have been established just below the top of North Wall (using rope slings and rings around trees) allowing the last pitch of the more popular routes to be climbed and an abseil descent to the Great Ledge be made.
All rock north of the North Buttress and south of Fly Wall is privately owned and all climbing is prohibited.
Dates: 1 March to 15 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
Ravens nesting on Wurlitzer. The restriction applies to all routes on Fly Wall between Flypast and Gendarmerie.
Peregrins nesting on North Wall. Avoid top pithes of left hand route (from the great ledge)
Rockfax Description
Start 2m right of a tall tree at a line of bolts. Climb direct to some red-stained rock below overhangs. Move up past the overhangs on the left and then on up the wall to a lower-off/abseil (26m to this point). The pitch can be extended further by passing pegs to a lower-off in a tree (35m to this point). © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Left most line of bolts and a few pegs on GO wall. The bolts end at a ledge just to the right of the peg belay on Never Say Die. From here, the idea is that you continue past 3 pegs, to a lower-off on a tree on Never Say Die. Most people either don't realise, or don't want to do this, so retreat by abseil from some tat in the penultimate bolt.
R Kingston, G Jenkin 03/Jun/1988.
User | Date | Notes | ||
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BarwoodP | 12 Sep, 2022 |
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βeta: Good Route a bit dusty but so warm and hot today, tricky sequence to figure out. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Good Route a bit dusty but so warm and hot today, tricky sequence to figure out. |
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widdlestickmcpoos | 24 Apr, 2021 |
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βeta: Easy when you go for it | βeta? | |
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βeta: Easy when you go for it |
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Grade: 6b+ ***
(Ban-y-gor)