UKC

Restricted Access

Fly Wall and Woodcroft Quarry: the current owners have not given permission to climb on this section of crag. If you do climb on this part of the crag, please be careful not to damage any fences in the area.

GO Wall: topping out now allowed year round for all routes from Feline/Jackal leftwards. King Kong ab. bolts removed. No topping out any time for right hand end – ab. stations in place where required. A large rockfall has recently (Jan 2013) been reported at the righthand side of the Pedestal on Go Wall - care should be taken with any remaining loose rock that may still be in place in this area.

North Wall: following a change of ownership of the house above this section of crag, the previous arrangement to exit through it’s garden is not longer possible. Please do not top out on any North Wall routes - only abseil descent from below the top of the crag is allowed. For those who don't wan't to climb above the Great Ledge, an abseil descent can be made from one of the two bolted abseil stations above The Tap or Joe’s Route. Two further abseil stations have been established just below the top of North Wall (using rope slings and rings around trees) allowing the last pitch of the more popular routes to be climbed and an abseil descent to the Great Ledge be made. 

All rock north of the North Buttress and south of Fly Wall is privately owned and all climbing is prohibited.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 15 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ravens nesting on Wurlitzer. The restriction applies to all routes on Fly Wall between Flypast and Gendarmerie.

Peregrines nesting on North Wall. Avoid top pitches of Left Hand Route (from the great ledge)

 

NOTICE: 30th April 2024 - Peregrines have been reported to be nesting on King King. Please avoid this area of the crag. It is likely that the crag restriction will be amended once it is confirmed if this is North Wall pair, or an additional pair.

Rockfax Description
Pumpy, but with some good, if spaced, holds. Start 8m left of a corner at some shallow, orange-stained pockets. Climb direct to below a pale sheet of rock at 9m (peg on the right). Head up to a slim break in the overlap above and finish up the final wall to a belay on The Easy Way Down. Tree belay and nuts in a short low corner. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Wye Valley Starred E1-E3

Feedback

User Date Notes
Stone Muppet 14 Jun, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Always was a bit overgraded at E2! Probably HVS if you're cunning with gear: about 1m above the last peg is a shallow spike, sling this and tie it down to the peg. The slab above is runout but easier than the wall.
Show beta
βeta: Always was a bit overgraded at E2! Probably HVS if you're cunning with gear: about 1m above the last peg is a shallow spike, sling this and tie it down to the peg. The slab above is runout but easier than the wall.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Wintour's Leap

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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 22
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 19
Votes cast 15
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Notung

Grade: E1 5a ***
(Wintour's Leap)

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