UKC

Restricted Access

Fly Wall and Woodcroft Quarry: the current owners have not given permission to climb on this section of crag. If you do climb on this part of the crag, please be careful not to damage any fences in the area.

GO Wall: topping out now allowed year round for all routes from Feline/Jackal leftwards. King Kong ab. bolts removed. No topping out any time for right hand end – ab. stations in place where required. A large rockfall has recently (Jan 2013) been reported at the righthand side of the Pedestal on Go Wall - care should be taken with any remaining loose rock that may still be in place in this area.

North Wall: following a change of ownership of the house above this section of crag, the previous arrangement to exit through it’s garden is not longer possible. Please do not top out on any North Wall routes - only abseil descent from below the top of the crag is allowed. For those who don't wan't to climb above the Great Ledge, an abseil descent can be made from one of the two bolted abseil stations above The Tap or Joe’s Route. Two further abseil stations have been established just below the top of North Wall (using rope slings and rings around trees) allowing the last pitch of the more popular routes to be climbed and an abseil descent to the Great Ledge be made. 

All rock north of the North Buttress and south of Fly Wall is privately owned and all climbing is prohibited.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 15 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ravens nesting on Wurlitzer. The restriction applies to all routes on Fly Wall between Flypast and Gendarmerie.

Peregrins nesting on North Wall. Avoid top pithes of left hand route (from the great ledge)

Rockfax Description
A short line up the hanging rib is both technical and powerful. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Short blunt arete in the right arena of the Quarry. Excellent compression bouldering on big and small sidepulls, a micro-gem worth **.

Ticklists

CoT Wye Valley Mileage #Levelup expansion pack , Recommended 7's , Wye Valley Sport , Wintour's leap

Feedback

User Date Notes
Old Danny 17 Aug, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Fun sequence, moving quick through the first bit and setting the feet right was key for me. Great balancy bits after step up, get it right you've at all the time in the world.
Show beta
βeta: Fun sequence, moving quick through the first bit and setting the feet right was key for me. Great balancy bits after step up, get it right you've at all the time in the world.
Sasuke3333 16 May, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: .
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: .

Logged Ascents

311 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Wintour's Leap

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 53 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
Votes cast 49
Votes cast 46
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Dogged
Redpoint
DNF
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Onsighted
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Pet Cemetery

Grade: 7a ***
(Ban-y-gor)

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