UKC

Restricted Access

Fly Wall and Woodcroft Quarry: the current owners have not given permission to climb on this section of crag. If you do climb on this part of the crag, please be careful not to damage any fences in the area.

GO Wall: topping out now allowed year round for all routes from Feline/Jackal leftwards. King Kong ab. bolts removed. No topping out any time for right hand end – ab. stations in place where required. A large rockfall has recently (Jan 2013) been reported at the righthand side of the Pedestal on Go Wall - care should be taken with any remaining loose rock that may still be in place in this area.

North Wall: following a change of ownership of the house above this section of crag, the previous arrangement to exit through it’s garden is not longer possible. Please do not top out on any North Wall routes - only abseil descent from below the top of the crag is allowed. For those who don't wan't to climb above the Great Ledge, an abseil descent can be made from one of the two bolted abseil stations above The Tap or Joe’s Route. Two further abseil stations have been established just below the top of North Wall (using rope slings and rings around trees) allowing the last pitch of the more popular routes to be climbed and an abseil descent to the Great Ledge be made. 

All rock north of the North Buttress and south of Fly Wall is privately owned and all climbing is prohibited.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 15 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ravens nesting on Wurlitzer. The restriction applies to all routes on Fly Wall between Flypast and Gendarmerie.

Peregrins nesting on North Wall. Avoid top pithes of left hand route (from the great ledge)

20m.

Rockfax Description
Start up the short wide crack and continue by weaving up past walls and ledges to a high lower-off. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A long easy pitch suitable for those with a less than perfect physique. Starts up the shallow chimney immediately left of Rippled and Toned and take a direct line to a double bolt abseil station. Six bolt runners.
CAUTION. A very loose boulder near second to last bolt that could mislead you in to thinking it is a good hand-hold.

Gordon A Jenkin, Tom Heslam, Ed Heslam (all led) 24/May/2008.

Ticklists

Wye Valley Salathe Challenge , Wye Valley Salathe Lite , Wye Valley Sport

Feedback

User Date Notes
rich432 21 Aug, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Stepping out left onto ledges etc is definitely easier, following the bolts truly direct feels more like high 5/ low 6a t
Show beta
βeta: Stepping out left onto ledges etc is definitely easier, following the bolts truly direct feels more like high 5/ low 6a t
Beckiintor 31 May, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Very loose boulder just after halfway, near second to last bolt. Be absolutely careful when finding this boulder as it's an otherwise attractive handhold.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Very loose boulder just after halfway, near second to last bolt. Be absolutely careful when finding this boulder as it's an otherwise attractive handhold.

Logged Ascents

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