UKC Logbook - 'Still Nice and Still Sleazy'

32m.

Rockfax Description
A ginormous pitch that has nineteen bolts. Take care lowering off as the route is 32m long. Head up the corner to mid-height, where a deviation out right and then back left regains the bolt line. More good climbing reaches the lower-off. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Long bolted line just right of the NE corner of Woodcroft Quarry. 19 bolts + 2 bolt lower-off (but there's at least one you can skip if your short of quickdraws).

60m rope only just reaches the ground when lowering, please take care. An alternative with a shorter rope is to multi-pitch the route from the first terrace.

Watch out for loose stones when belaying.

Climb the corner with holds out left until the route moves onto the main wall. Climb up to the bulge and, after clipping the bolt, move right to hidden hold out right and small jug a reach above. Climb over the budge and upward until a small traverse left is required. Climb up again until some more suspect rock on the left allows you to get to just below and left of the top out. Bridge out right using diagonal holds to reach the abseil station.

Ticklists

Orange Spot Lower Wye , The best 50 UK "Orange Spot" Sports Routes? , Wye Valley Salathe Challenge , All multi-pitch sport routes (England and Wales) , 6As with stars near Bristol , Wye Valley Sport

Feedback Always Hide βeta

User	Date		Notes
mountaingoatgirl	7 Oct, 2022	Show βeta βeta: Eventually did all the moves but it was super reachy and sketchy over the crux, harder then 6a+ for short climbers. Looks like potential holds broken off?	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Eventually did all the moves but it was super reachy and sketchy over the crux, harder then 6a+ for short climbers. Looks like potential holds broken off?
miguelboland	6 Mar, 2022	Show βeta βeta: If you've left a quickdraw half way up this route, let me know the model and if any tags are on the QD and we'll mail it back to you!	βeta?
Show beta βeta: If you've left a quickdraw half way up this route, let me know the model and if any tags are on the QD and we'll mail it back to you!
Dutton	7 Nov, 2021	Show βeta βeta: Awesome route, pumpy crux unlocked via the fabled hidden hold. Lots of good rests but found clipping the second to last bolt an emotional affair due to limited reach.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Awesome route, pumpy crux unlocked via the fabled hidden hold. Lots of good rests but found clipping the second to last bolt an emotional affair due to limited reach.
PaulJepson	27 Aug, 2021	Show βeta βeta: Whoever scratched the grade into the rock face at the bottom, you are a tool.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Whoever scratched the grade into the rock face at the bottom, you are a tool.
samsebways	20 Apr, 2021	Show βeta βeta:	βeta?
Show beta βeta:
PaulJepson	7 Aug, 2020	Show βeta βeta: Rightwards finish more solid and less runout.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Rightwards finish more solid and less runout.
Johnlenham	5 Jul, 2020	Show βeta βeta: This is at least 18 with 2 for the anchor despite what this says lol	βeta?
Show beta βeta: This is at least 18 with 2 for the anchor despite what this says lol
Fakey Rocks	14 Jun, 2020	Show βeta βeta: Isn't it 18 bolts with lower off?	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Isn't it 18 bolts with lower off?
chri_5	20 Sep, 2019	Show βeta βeta: Great route with some really good holds. Finding the jug on the crux to the right is a must.
Show beta βeta: Great route with some really good holds. Finding the jug on the crux to the right is a must.
Jones_Will_Climb	13 Jul, 2019	Show βeta βeta: Keep an eye out for the loose large block in the groove to the left of the 6th or 7th bolt.
Show beta βeta: Keep an eye out for the loose large block in the groove to the left of the 6th or 7th bolt.
hutster781	9 Jun, 2019	Show βeta βeta: Save some energy for top clips as the rope gets heavy	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Save some energy for top clips as the rope gets heavy