UKC

Restricted Access

Fly Wall and Woodcroft Quarry: the current owners have not given permission to climb on this section of crag. If you do climb on this part of the crag, please be careful not to damage any fences in the area.

GO Wall: topping out now allowed year round for all routes from Feline/Jackal leftwards. King Kong ab. bolts removed. No topping out any time for right hand end – ab. stations in place where required. A large rockfall has recently (Jan 2013) been reported at the righthand side of the Pedestal on Go Wall - care should be taken with any remaining loose rock that may still be in place in this area.

North Wall: following a change of ownership of the house above this section of crag, the previous arrangement to exit through it’s garden is not longer possible. Please do not top out on any North Wall routes - only abseil descent from below the top of the crag is allowed. For those who don't wan't to climb above the Great Ledge, an abseil descent can be made from one of the two bolted abseil stations above The Tap or Joe’s Route. Two further abseil stations have been established just below the top of North Wall (using rope slings and rings around trees) allowing the last pitch of the more popular routes to be climbed and an abseil descent to the Great Ledge be made. 

All rock north of the North Buttress and south of Fly Wall is privately owned and all climbing is prohibited.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 15 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ravens nesting on Wurlitzer. The restriction applies to all routes on Fly Wall between Flypast and Gendarmerie.

Peregrins nesting on North Wall. Avoid top pithes of left hand route (from the great ledge)

32m.

Rockfax Description
A ginormous pitch that has nineteen bolts. Take care lowering off as the route is 32m long. Head up the corner to mid-height, where a deviation out right and then back left regains the bolt line. More good climbing reaches the lower-off. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Long bolted line just right of the NE corner of Woodcroft Quarry. 19 bolts + 2 bolt lower-off (but there's at least one you can skip if your short of quickdraws).

60m rope only just reaches the ground when lowering, please take care. An alternative with a shorter rope is to multi-pitch the route from the first terrace.

Watch out for loose stones when belaying.

Climb the corner with holds out left until the route moves onto the main wall. Climb up to the bulge and, after clipping the bolt, move right to hidden hold out right and small jug a reach above. Climb over the budge and upward until a small traverse left is required. Climb up again until some more suspect rock on the left allows you to get to just below and left of the top out. Bridge out right using diagonal holds to reach the abseil station.

Ticklists

Orange Spot Lower Wye , The best 50 UK "Orange Spot" Sports Routes? , Wye Valley Salathe Challenge , All multi-pitch sport routes (England and Wales) , 6As with stars near Bristol , Wye Valley Sport , Wintour's leap

Feedback

User Date Notes
mountaingoatgirl 7 Oct, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Eventually did all the moves but it was super reachy and sketchy over the crux, harder then 6a+ for short climbers. Looks like potential holds broken off?
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βeta: Eventually did all the moves but it was super reachy and sketchy over the crux, harder then 6a+ for short climbers. Looks like potential holds broken off?
miguelboland 6 Mar, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: If you've left a quickdraw half way up this route, let me know the model and if any tags are on the QD and we'll mail it back to you!
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βeta: If you've left a quickdraw half way up this route, let me know the model and if any tags are on the QD and we'll mail it back to you!
Dutton 7 Nov, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Awesome route, pumpy crux unlocked via the fabled hidden hold. Lots of good rests but found clipping the second to last bolt an emotional affair due to limited reach.
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βeta: Awesome route, pumpy crux unlocked via the fabled hidden hold. Lots of good rests but found clipping the second to last bolt an emotional affair due to limited reach.
PaulJepson 27 Aug, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Whoever scratched the grade into the rock face at the bottom, you are a tool.
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βeta: Whoever scratched the grade into the rock face at the bottom, you are a tool.
samsebways 20 Apr, 2021 Show βeta
βeta:
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βeta:
PaulJepson 7 Aug, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Rightwards finish more solid and less runout.
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βeta: Rightwards finish more solid and less runout.
Johnlenham 5 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: This is at least 18 with 2 for the anchor despite what this says lol
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βeta: This is at least 18 with 2 for the anchor despite what this says lol
Fakey Rocks 14 Jun, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Isn't it 18 bolts with lower off?
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βeta: Isn't it 18 bolts with lower off?
chri_5 20 Sep, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Great route with some really good holds. Finding the jug on the crux to the right is a must.
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βeta: Great route with some really good holds. Finding the jug on the crux to the right is a must.
Jones_Will_Climb 13 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Keep an eye out for the loose large block in the groove to the left of the 6th or 7th bolt.
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βeta: Keep an eye out for the loose large block in the groove to the left of the 6th or 7th bolt.
hutster781 9 Jun, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Save some energy for top clips as the rope gets heavy
βeta?
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βeta: Save some energy for top clips as the rope gets heavy

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