UKC

16m. Approach as for Still Nice and Still Sleazy.Pitch descriptions:
16 metres, E2 5b. Start to the right of Crowbar Cowboy under the attractive, solid wall. Taking care with the first bit, climb to the little roof formed by the base of the wall (dirty break for gear). Climb up and left over the little roof (peg on left shared with Crowbar Cowboy), now move back right across the wall on small positive holds to a second peg. Now move up right to a large flat hold under a roof, with a third peg in a thin break on the left. (It is possible to hand traverse this break to join Crowbar Cowboy if you want). Reach up and right over the roof and haul over onto cleaned ledges. Climb right easily past a the foot of a flake crack, then rock onto a large rib. Now move up to the tree belay of Hard Sleaze. Abseil off. Additional info:
Route was cleaned on abseil then lead climbed. All gear was placed on the lead apart from the 3 pegs.
( It’s worth mentioning that since I cleaned and climbed this route 10 years ago, it and Hannah Maddens Rainbow have become buried in thick ivy, I will include a photo of it from then.)

Gavin Cytlau, Adam Parslow 08/Feb/2014.

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Route of Interest
Kangaroo Wall

Grade: E2 6a ***
(Wintour's Leap)

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