UKC

16m. 16 metres, E2 5b. Start to the right of Crowbar Cowboy under the attractive, solid wall. Taking care with the first bit, climb to the little roof formed by the base of the wall (dirty break for gear). Instead of moving left to the first peg on Crowbar Cowboy make a tough move straight up ( maybe 5c for the short )to the second peg ( now twin pegs ) on Super Tone. Now move back right across the wall on small holds to a second peg. Now move up right to a large flat hold under a roof, with a third peg ( now twin pegs ) in a thin break on the left. (It is possible to hand traverse this break to join Crowbar Cowboy if you want). Reach up and right over the roof and haul over onto cleaned ledges. Climb right easily past a the foot of a flake crack, ( peg ) then rock onto a large rib. Now move up to the tree belay of Hard Sleaze. Abseil off.
Climbed rope solo with pre placed gear on the lower crux wall and 2 points of aid, one on the tough move low down and one before hauling over the roof, I can’t quite rope solo 5b at the moment.

Gavin Cytlau. 17/Jun/2024.

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Route of Interest
Kangaroo Wall

Grade: E2 6a ***
(Wintour's Leap)

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