UKC

Rockfax Description
Interesting moves throughout. Start as for The Split.
1) 5a, 13m. The Split pitch 1.
2) 5a, 12m. Gain the horizontal break and traverse left to a ledge. Head back right to a groove and follow it to the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Climb the first pitch as per "The Split" - VS 5a.
Traverse left and mount the obvious shelf. Step up and place good gear here and make a couple of difficult moves right until established in the crack. Climb the crack to the top.

Ticklists

CC Wye Valley and Forest of Dean trad stars, blue list (VS and HVS)

Feedback

User Date Notes
el_tiburon_malo 1 Jan Show βeta
βeta: Easily linked as one pitch with a 40m rope; liberally extend protection.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Easily linked as one pitch with a 40m rope; liberally extend protection.
PaulJepson 3 Dec, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: If it's close to your limit then not a bad idea to do in 2 pitches. The gear on p2 crux is bomber but with a load of rope out you need a decent belayer to keep you off the ledge.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: If it's close to your limit then not a bad idea to do in 2 pitches. The gear on p2 crux is bomber but with a load of rope out you need a decent belayer to keep you off the ledge.
springfall2008 1 Jun, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: On the second pitch, after mounting the ledge you need to head up and right, there's a small foothold you need to get up to, foot swap and then bridge out right to the crack.
Show beta
βeta: On the second pitch, after mounting the ledge you need to head up and right, there's a small foothold you need to get up to, foot swap and then bridge out right to the crack.

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 43
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 41
Votes cast 40
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Toproped
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
No Musketeers

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Shorn Cliff)

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