An unusual route for the wall where the main difficulties are found on its first pitch. Large gear is needed for the top pitch. Start 2m left of an information sign bolted to the crag.
1) 5a, 13m. Climb up past a pocket to a peg in a break. Step up left and then traverse slightly rightwards to reach a mud bank. At the top of the bank belay below an off-width crack in the upper wall.
2) 4b, 13m. Move up right to the off-width crack and follow it and its offset continuation to the top. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Two pitches, the first a short polished wall and the second an off-width crack. Can be climbed as a single pitch.
Take plenty of big gear, 3, 3.5 and 4 cams and large hexes as it would be very serious without.
First pitch - keeping to the left climb up past a pocket (cam) and to a good peg. Step up left and then traverse slightly right. Climb the muddy bank to the off-width crack.
Climb the off-width crack by layback, bridging and smearing.
Block or tree belay.
P Trinder Dec/1967.
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