An unusual route for the wall, with the main difficulties found on its first pitch. Large gear is needed for the top pitch. Start 2m left of an information sign bolted to the crag.1) 5a, 13m. Climb up past a pocket to a peg in a break. Step up left and then traverse slightly rightwards to reach a mud bank. At the top of the bank belay below an off-width crack in the upper wall.2) 4b, 13m. Move up right to the off-width crack and follow it and its offset continuation to the top. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Two pitches, the first a short polished wall and the second an off-width crack. Can be climbed as a single pitch.
Take plenty of big gear, 3, 3.5 and 4 cams and large hexes as it would be very serious without.
First pitch - keeping to the left climb up past a pocket (cam) and to a good peg. Step up left and then traverse slightly right. Climb the muddy bank to the off-width crack.
Climb the off-width crack by layback, bridging and smearing.
Block or tree belay.
P Trinder Dec/1967.
But what have you done on South-East Wales Sandstone/Limestone?
CC Wye Valley and Forest of Dean trad stars, blue list (VS and HVS)
Bristol Area Easy Trad Ticklist
Desperate for Crack (near Bristol)
Please Login to view more details on the logged
Grade: VS 5a ***
Feedback comments are intended to give extra information about a route which may be helpful to other climbers.
This can include 'βeta' which is crucial information about the route which may be how to do a move, or tips about
holds or gear.
If you don't want to see βeta then select 'Always Hide βeta' and the comments will be hidden for you. You can
set this in your User Options.
If you read a comment that you think contains crucial βeta then you can mark it as 'βeta' using the flag on
If you see something incorrectly marked as βeta, you can hide it by clicking on the word 'βeta:' on the
You can also copy any of your previous personal ascent comments to Public Feedback if they contain useful general
They can be edited before posting to remove
personal content if required.