UKC

27m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
An unusual route for the wall where the main difficulties are found on its first pitch. Large gear is needed for the top pitch. Start 2m left of an information sign bolted to the crag.
1) 5a, 13m. Climb up past a pocket to a peg in a break. Step up left and then traverse slightly rightwards to reach a mud bank. At the top of the bank belay below an off-width crack in the upper wall.
2) 4b, 13m. Move up right to the off-width crack and follow it and its offset continuation to the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Two pitches, the first a short polished wall and the second an off-width crack. Can be climbed as a single pitch.

Take plenty of big gear, 3, 3.5 and 4 cams and large hexes as it would be very serious without.

First pitch - keeping to the left climb up past a pocket (cam) and to a good peg. Step up left and then traverse slightly right. Climb the muddy bank to the off-width crack.

Climb the off-width crack by layback, bridging and smearing.

Block or tree belay.

P Trinder Dec/1967.

Ticklists

But what have you done on South-East Wales Sandstone/Limestone? , CC Wye Valley and Forest of Dean trad stars, blue list (VS and HVS) , Bristol Area Easy Trad Ticklist

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User Date Notes
afshapes 18 Mar, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Did not realise that I'd climbed this already. Take BIG gear
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Did not realise that I'd climbed this already. Take BIG gear

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 66
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 61
Votes cast 53
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Toproped
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Ground Up
Redpoint
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
The Angel's Girdle

Grade: VS 5a ***
(Wintour's Leap)

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