Fly Wall and Woodcroft Quarry: the current owners have not given permission to climb on this section of crag. If you do climb on this part of the crag, please be careful not to damage any fences in the area.
GO Wall: topping out now allowed year round for all routes from Feline/Jackal leftwards. King Kong ab. bolts removed. No topping out any time for right hand end – ab. stations in place where required. A large rockfall has recently (Jan 2013) been reported at the righthand side of the Pedestal on Go Wall - care should be taken with any remaining loose rock that may still be in place in this area.
North Wall: following a change of ownership of the house above this section of crag, the previous arrangement to exit through it’s garden is not longer possible. Please do not top out on any North Wall routes - only abseil descent from below the top of the crag is allowed. For those who don't wan't to climb above the Great Ledge, an abseil descent can be made from one of the two bolted abseil stations above The Tap or Joe’s Route. Two further abseil stations have been established just below the top of North Wall (using rope slings and rings around trees) allowing the last pitch of the more popular routes to be climbed and an abseil descent to the Great Ledge be made.
All rock north of the North Buttress and south of Fly Wall is privately owned and all climbing is prohibited.
Dates: 1 March to 15 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
Ravens nesting on Wurlitzer. The restriction applies to all routes on Fly Wall between Flypast and Gendarmerie.
Peregrins nesting on North Wall. Avoid top pithes of left hand route (from the great ledge)
Rockfax Description
An unusual route for the wall, with the main difficulties found on its first pitch. Large gear is needed for the top pitch. Start 2m left of an information sign bolted to the crag.
1) 5a, 13m. Climb up past a pocket to a peg in a break. Step up left and then traverse slightly rightwards to reach a mud bank. At the top of the bank belay below an off-width crack in the upper wall.
2) 4b, 13m. Move up right to the off-width crack and follow it and its offset continuation to the top. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Two pitches, the first a short polished wall and the second an off-width crack. Can be climbed as a single pitch.
Take plenty of big gear, 3, 3.5 and 4 cams and large hexes as it would be very serious without.
First pitch - keeping to the left climb up past a pocket (cam) and to a good peg. Step up left and then traverse slightly right. Climb the muddy bank to the off-width crack.
Climb the off-width crack by layback, bridging and smearing.
Block or tree belay.
P Trinder Dec/1967.
But what have you done on South-East Wales Sandstone/Limestone? , CC Wye Valley and Forest of Dean trad stars, blue list (VS and HVS) , Bristol Area Easy Trad Ticklist , Desperate for Crack (near Bristol) , Wintour's leap
User | Date | Notes | ||
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afshapes | 18 Mar, 2021 |
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βeta: Did not realise that I'd climbed this already. Take BIG gear | βeta? | |
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βeta: Did not realise that I'd climbed this already. Take BIG gear |
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Grade: VS 4c ***
(Symonds Yat)