Fly Wall and Woodcroft Quarry: the current owners have not given permission to climb on this section of crag. If you do climb on this part of the crag, please be careful not to damage any fences in the area.
GO Wall: topping out now allowed year round for all routes from Feline/Jackal leftwards. King Kong ab. bolts removed. No topping out any time for right hand end – ab. stations in place where required. A large rockfall has recently (Jan 2013) been reported at the righthand side of the Pedestal on Go Wall - care should be taken with any remaining loose rock that may still be in place in this area.
North Wall: following a change of ownership of the house above this section of crag, the previous arrangement to exit through it’s garden is not longer possible. Please do not top out on any North Wall routes - only abseil descent from below the top of the crag is allowed. For those who don't wan't to climb above the Great Ledge, an abseil descent can be made from one of the two bolted abseil stations above The Tap or Joe’s Route. Two further abseil stations have been established just below the top of North Wall (using rope slings and rings around trees) allowing the last pitch of the more popular routes to be climbed and an abseil descent to the Great Ledge be made.
All rock north of the North Buttress and south of Fly Wall is privately owned and all climbing is prohibited.
Dates: 1 March to 15 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
Ravens nesting on Wurlitzer. The restriction applies to all routes on Fly Wall between Flypast and Gendarmerie.
Peregrins nesting on North Wall. Avoid top pithes of left hand route (from the great ledge)
Rockfax Description
A pitch of many parts. Start under the right-facing groove left of a yellow wall. Climb directly to the groove and continue up it via some tricky sequences (peg) and at its end move left to a ledge. From the left side of the ledge, climb up to the fragile band that runs across the face at mid-height and then on up a narrow groove to below an overhang (peg). Pull past the overhang and move up rightwards to a roof (peg). Pass the roof on its left side and continue up the final wall on good holds to a lower-off/abseil station. © Rockfax
User | Date | Notes | ||
---|---|---|---|---|
ericinbristol | 4 Jun, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: Lots of in situ gear including a cemented in wire; needs only medium and small gear. Not sustained. Low in grade. | ||
Show beta
βeta: Lots of in situ gear including a cemented in wire; needs only medium and small gear. Not sustained. Low in grade. |
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Grade: E3 6a ***
(Coaley Wood Crag)