UKC

Restricted Access

One of the more convenient and quick-drying crags in the area. Good sport climbing as well as a reasonable selection of trad routes. The popular routes tend to be polished, especially the starts of those on the Lower Lift.

Whitebeams (a rare species of tree) grow on the crag and are an important feature of the SSSI. Please do not cut any trees on or around the crag without gaining permision first as this could result in access issues in future. If you want to carry out cleaning which involves trees, please contact the BMC access team first through access@thebmc.co.uk.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 15 February to 15 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

There is a tawny owl nesting on "It's Over for Jehovah". Avoide all routes between "Head full of hedda" and "What you think"

12m.

Rockfax Description
Gain a ledge at 3m. Move up and left to a corner crack that is laybacked and bridged to a lower-off. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The bolted line to the left of THE END. Climb onto the ledge at 3m from the left then step across left to the hanging flake crack (watch out for the loose flake) climb this up to the 2 bolt lower off.

Gordon Jenkins 18/May/2011.

Ticklists

Wye Valley Salathe Challenge , CoT Wye Valley Mileage #C2K , 6As with stars near Bristol

Feedback

User Date Notes
Jake Dunkley 18 Oct, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Few broken holds was a bit sketchy.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Few broken holds was a bit sketchy.
springfall2008 14 Aug, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Stay right on the pillar at the start, then once you have mounted it step left and go up until your hands are level with the large flake crack out left. Traverse left onto the flack crack and climb by bridging any laybacks to the top. Avoid the sloping hold near the top of the flake in favour of the sharp pointed one at the top.
Show beta
βeta: Stay right on the pillar at the start, then once you have mounted it step left and go up until your hands are level with the large flake crack out left. Traverse left onto the flack crack and climb by bridging any laybacks to the top. Avoid the sloping hold near the top of the flake in favour of the sharp pointed one at the top.

Logged Ascents

596 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Wyndcliff Quarry

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High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 48
Votes cast 35
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Ground Up
DNF
Not Set
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