UKC

Restricted Access

One of the more convenient and quick-drying crags in the area. Good sport climbing as well as a reasonable selection of trad routes. The popular routes tend to be polished, especially the starts of those on the Lower Lift.

Whitebeams (a rare species of tree) grow on the crag and are an important feature of the SSSI. Please do not cut any trees on or around the crag without gaining permision first as this could result in access issues in future. If you want to carry out cleaning which involves trees, please contact the BMC access team first through [email protected].

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 15 February to 15 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

There is a tawny owl nesting on "It's Over for Jehovah". Avoide all routes between "Head full of hedda" and "What you think"

17m.

Rockfax Description
Climb the bolted start of Shin Gi Tai (2) until the hanging crack on the right can be accessed. Climb the short crack. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Climb the groove to the crack of Shin Gi Tai; then pull out right and climb a hanging groove. The first part of this climb is now bolted, since the start has been incorporated into the newer sport route Shin Gi Tai (2). There is also a lower-off.

T Penning 21/Jan/2007.

Ticklists

Wye Valley Starred E1-E3

Feedback

User Date Notes
ericinbristol 18 Nov, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Worthwhile if short-lived. Placing gear felt unnecessary after clipping four bolts on the left. Falling off while clipping the LO is not advisable but you are in a solid position. E1 5b / F6b
Show beta
βeta: Worthwhile if short-lived. Placing gear felt unnecessary after clipping four bolts on the left. Falling off while clipping the LO is not advisable but you are in a solid position. E1 5b / F6b

Logged Ascents

42 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Wyndcliff Quarry

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 8 users have this on their wishlist

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Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 6
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 4
Votes cast 5
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Repeated
DNF
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest
Zulu

Grade: E2 5c ***
(Wynd Cliff)

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