One of the more convenient and quick-drying crags in the area. Good sport climbing as well as a reasonable selection of trad routes. The popular routes tend to be polished, especially the starts of those on the Lower Lift.
Whitebeams (a rare species of tree) grow on the crag and are an important feature of the SSSI. Please do not cut any trees on or around the crag without gaining permision first as this could result in access issues in future. If you want to carry out cleaning which involves trees, please contact the BMC access team first through firstname.lastname@example.org.
Dates: 15 February to 15 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
There is a tawny owl nesting on "It's Over for Jehovah". Avoide all routes between "Head full of hedda" and "What you think"
UKC Logbook Description
A welcome fun addition taking the funky breccia immediately right of One Tooth Short of a Smile.
Climb directly up the line of the shallow crack, surmount the breccia bulge on welcome holds and get established on the flowstone wall above. Either finish out left at a new abseil station (if the wall is crowded with climbers) or, better, finish diagonally rightwards to the double ring abseil station atop Still Stuck on You. Four bolt runners.
Gordon A Jenkin, Brian (Blob) Wyvill (both led). First climbed when the crag was originally developed. Now resurrected, independently bolted and re-cleaned. 11/May/2015.