UKC

Restricted Access

One of the more convenient and quick-drying crags in the area. Good sport climbing as well as a reasonable selection of trad routes. The popular routes tend to be polished, especially the starts of those on the Lower Lift.

Whitebeams (a rare species of tree) grow on the crag and are an important feature of the SSSI. Please do not cut any trees on or around the crag without gaining permision first as this could result in access issues in future. If you want to carry out cleaning which involves trees, please contact the BMC access team first through access@thebmc.co.uk.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 15 February to 15 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

There is a tawny owl nesting on "It's Over for Jehovah". Avoide all routes between "Head full of hedda" and "What you think"
10m.

Rockfax Description
One of the Lower Lift's best climbs. Climb up thin cracks and stuck-on holds to the breccia rail and follow this up rightwards on massive holds to the lower-off. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A welcome fun addition taking the funky breccia immediately right of One Tooth Short of a Smile.
Climb directly up the line of the shallow crack, surmount the breccia bulge on welcome holds and get established on the flowstone wall above. Either finish out left at a new abseil station (if the wall is crowded with climbers) or, better, finish diagonally rightwards to the double ring abseil station atop Still Stuck on You. Four bolt runners.

Gordon A Jenkin, Brian (Blob) Wyvill (both led). First climbed when the crag was originally developed. Now resurrected, independently bolted and re-cleaned. 11/May/2015.

Ticklists

UK "Orange Spot Sport" - The Best of The Rest? , Orange Spot Lower Wye , Orange Spot South Wales Sport , Wye Valley Salathe Challenge , CoT Wye Valley Mileage #C2K , UK Flowstone , Wye Valley Sport

Feedback

User Date Notes
JRSC 4 Apr, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Big block broke off just below anchor. Be careful.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Big block broke off just below anchor. Be careful.
MSByrne 19 Feb, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Really solid holds.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Really solid holds.
Samuele Mattiuzzo 14 Jun, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Climbed in pouring rain this morning, went there do redpoint something else. Fun stable yet slippery adventure!
Show beta
βeta: Climbed in pouring rain this morning, went there do redpoint something else. Fun stable yet slippery adventure!

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