UKC

Restricted Access

One of the more convenient and quick-drying crags in the area. Good sport climbing as well as a reasonable selection of trad routes. The popular routes tend to be polished, especially the starts of those on the Lower Lift.

Whitebeams (a rare species of tree) grow on the crag and are an important feature of the SSSI. Please do not cut any trees on or around the crag without gaining permision first as this could result in access issues in future. If you want to carry out cleaning which involves trees, please contact the BMC access team first through access@thebmc.co.uk.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 15 February to 15 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

There is a tawny owl nesting on "It's Over for Jehovah". Avoide all routes between "Head full of hedda" and "What you think"
10m.

Rockfax Description
The initial crack that leads to the midway break is smooth sided and trickier that it appears. Above the break, positive breccia holds are followed past a couple of bolts to the lower-off. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A nice little route with established hybrid status. Climb the prominent crack to a break; then climb on large concretions past two bolts to the upper break and an abseil station just above.

G Jenkin, A Tallant 14/Oct/1990.

Ticklists

Bristol Crack School , CC Wye Valley and Forest of Dean trad stars, blue list (VS and HVS)

Feedback

User Date Notes
rbh22 24 Apr, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Only had my even nuts as was planning a sport day and that was more than enough. Cams would be easier though.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Only had my even nuts as was planning a sport day and that was more than enough. Cams would be easier though.
PaulJepson 8 Dec, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Crack doesn't take nuts well but you can place bomber cams at the top of it from the first easy-to-reach ledge.
Show beta
βeta: Crack doesn't take nuts well but you can place bomber cams at the top of it from the first easy-to-reach ledge.

Logged Ascents

949 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Wyndcliff Quarry

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 16 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 53
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 49
Votes cast 69
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Soloed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Redpoint
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Sinew

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Wynd Cliff)

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