Best Climbing Experience

Expedition Experience Big Wall Climbing and Expedition Climbing 1987 Caucus reaching 5800m on Mount Elbrus 1989 ’Caveman’ Torres Del Paine, Chile Patagonia. ED 700M E5. 2 days alpine style 1990 Attempt on Cerro Torre. Retreated from high up. Argentina free climbing nr Baraloche. Salethe, Nose in a day El Cap. Regular route Half Dome 1991 ‘Halucagen Wall’ Black Canyon of Gunnison US.5 Days on route A4+.800m 1992 ’For a Fist Full of Dollars’ Torres Del Paine, Chile Patagonia, ED 800M 12 days Big Wall. 1993 ‘Shield’ El Cap A3 5 days on route. ‘Moon light Buttress’ Zion. US 1994 ’Umweltern’, Nalamortorsaq, Greenland. 700m 3 days , E5, A1. Free Route. ‘Moby Dick’ 1200m ,Greenland, 2nd ascent Greenland. First time climbed in one day.. 1995 The Excellent Adventure’ Beatrice, Hushe Pakistan. ED 850M 14 days Big Wall 1996 ’Endless Day’ The Citadel, Baffin Island. ED 1000m 18 days on climb. Big Wall. ‘Grains of Sand’ Hands of Fatima, Mali. 650m E4. Free route. 1997 ’Nawas’ Nawas Brak- Amin Brak , Hushe , Pakistan. ED 1300m 18 days on Wall ‘Always the Sun’ . Madagascar. 500m 7c+. Free route. Many repeats 1998 ‘Norwegian Pillar’ Greater Trango, Pakistan. Stopped 500m from top. 21 consecutive nights on portaledges after 2000m of big wall climbing at 6000m. 1999 ‘The Crucible’ 850m New route in Lowes Gully Borneo E4 ,A4 (12 days on route) 2000 ’For a few Dollars more’ Torres Del Paine, Patagonia. 800m, E4 A1. Free route. Alpine style 3 days on route. Attempted a new line on the Central Tower of Paine (5 weeks!) 2001 ’The Land that time forgot’Acapan. Venezuela, 700m , E5. Free route. ‘Off the wall Bonkers’ Kitchatna Spires, Alaska, Big Wall ED 850m. Big Wall. 7 days on route 2002 ‘The Supa Dupa Coulior’ The Citadel, Kitchatna Spires. 1000m ED , 5+ French Ice. Alpine.Piolet D’or nominated. 2003 ‘The Perfect Storm’ Mnt Nevermore, Kitchatna Spires, 1000m ED E4, A2. Big Wall 12 days. Alaska. Mexico . Free climbing Puchero Chico. 2004 ’Storm Pillar’, Lofoten, Storen Pillar, 800m. Big Wall. 5 days on route. Norway 2005 Attempted a new line on East Face of Fixroy (7 week trip!)Patagonia 2006 ‘Biff Bash Bosh ED2 M71000m’,‘Artist Coulior TD 800m’, ‘Cool Coulior 1000m’ Kitchatnas. Alaska ‘The Good The Bad and the Ugly’ Paine. South Tower. Patagonia, 1000m Big Wall ED E3 A4. 24 days. 2007 Taghia Morocco. repeats of major routes, first British ascents of Big Walls 16 pitch 7c. Climbs in Cordillera Blanc.Peru. Alaska , Kitchatna Spires. Snow patch spire 2008 ’Like a Pig in Shit’. Sardinia 500m new free route 7c. A1. 12 pitch sport route ‘Devil Rides Out’ Torres Del Paine.800m E4, A4, 12 Days on route. Patagonia 2009 ‘Big Lips’ 500m E56b new route. 6 new routes. 1st Brit ascent of ‘Black Mamba’ 10 pitch 7b Mali 2010 ‘Arctic Monkeys’ 1400m Big Wall in Arctic Baffin. 23 days on the face with very hard climbing all the way. PIOLET nomination big list. 2011 ‘Ecstacey’ new route on the Similestock in the Alps. Climbing up to 7c-c+. With climbing partner Andy Cave. 2012 ‘Hard Arteries’ Alaska Mixed face and Big Wall. 8 days on the face climbing to summit on Middle Triple Peak. 2013 Alaska Shaken not stirred, Mooses Tooth, new big wall in Taghia Morroco. 2014 First ascent of East face of South Tower of Patagonia month trip, E7 Dangleberries in Morroco. COlton/Mc on the North Face of the Grand Jorasse. 2015 First ascent of ‘No Country for Young Men’, ED 1000m VI, Alaska, North Triple Peak, Kichatnas, Piolet D Or nomination. First ascent of No place for young boys E 7 Gogarth. 7c+ sports climbing. Piolets d’Or Nominee 2003 : ‘The Supa Dupa Coulior’ ED 4 VI,M7,1000m. Kitchatna Spires The purpose of the Piolets d’Or awards is to raise awareness about the year’s greatest ascents across the world. They aim to celebrate the taste for adventure, the bravery and sense of exploration that lie behind the art of climbing in the world’s great mountain ranges.