UKC

Contributed by huwbrace Feb/20 - This public ticklist has been seen 875 times

A list of the first ascents of non-eliminate problems at each grade. Traverses are in a seperate list below.

Some problems were originally the starts to routes, but the nature of bouldering has evolved over the years and this list represents the progression of climbing standards on what we currently call boulder problems.


5 - Victorian Climb - Simon's Seat - ? - 1895

6A - Flipper - Robin Hood's Stride - ? - 1903 photo (Flipper is the climb on the right, without the cheat stone)

6A - Spider Wall - Ilkley - ? - 1930's? video

6A - Crease Direct - Crookrise - Allen Austin - 1957 (beats Crucifix Arete by a year and The Villain by two)

6A+ - Teaspoon Variation - Almscliff - Arthur Dolphin - 1948

6A+ - Wall of Horrors Direct Start - Almscliff - Joe Brown (onsight) - 1950s? video photo

6B - Janker's Groove Direct - Froggatt - Don Whillans - 1948?

6B+ - ?

6C - Syretts roof - Almscliff - John Syrett - early 1972 (beats Horror Arete by two years) video

6C+ - Tom's Original - Stoney Middleton - Tom Proctor ? - 1960s? (given 7A, but generally regarded as a bit soft.) video

7A - Barleymow - Almscliff - Tony Barley - 1966 video

7A+ - Ron's Crack II - Crookrise - Ron Fawcett - 1974 (beats Red Baron and Desert Island Arete by two years) photo

7B? - Jerry's Arete - Bridestones - Jerry Peel - 1970s? (grade reflects original state - it used to have better footholds) photo

7B - Bald Pate Superdirect - Ilkley - Andy Brown - 1980

7B+ - Lay-By Arete - Slipstones - Paul Ingham - 1983 (beats West Side Story by two years) video

7C - Cental Wall Direct - Dib Scar - Rob Gawthorpe - 1982 (the start to a route, not generally considered a boulder problem, though it is probably possible as such.)

7C - Sole Power - Froggatt - Jerry Moffatt - 1983 video photo

7C+ - Haston Problem - The Breck - Stevie Haston - 1979

7C+ - Monoblock - Pex Hill - Joe Healy - early 80s photo photo photo

8A - Careless Torque - Stanage - Ron Fawcett - 1987 video

8A+ - Superman - Crag X - Jerry Moffatt - 1988 (a tight line. holds have altered.) video

8B - Isla de Encanta - Trowbarrow - John Gaskins - 1999 video

8B+ - Kaizen - Woodwell - John Gaskins - 2001 photo

8C - Walk Away ss - Fairysteps - John Gaskins - 2002 photo

Me working out the move on Careless Torque  © CragHead
Me working out the move on Careless Torque
© CragHead, Oct 2004

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User Percentage Latest Log
1st Si Witcher 15% 6 Sep, 2009
2nd RagingAbeSimpson 10% 5 Nov, 2023

Map of routes in this ticklist

Least routes Most routes

Distribution of grades

Top 12 photos of this ticklist

James Pearson on Careless Torque in the mist and fog

Careless Torque
James Pearson on Careless Torque in the mist and fog
© Henry Henderson

Careless Torque

Careless Torque
© Nick Brown

Mina on Careless Torque

Careless Torque
Mina on Careless Torque
© Nick Brown

Sent....? Seems Legit.

Careless Torque
Sent....? Seems Legit.
© Heather Osborne

Careless Torque

Careless Torque
© Nick Brown

Mat Wright - Jerry's Arete

Jerry's Arete
Mat Wright - Jerry's Arete
© Adam Ellwood

Getting the foot up

Jerry's Arete
Getting the foot up
© Rory Stocks

Monoblock

Monoblock
© Stu Lade

Rob on layby arete

Lay-By Arete
Rob on layby arete
© JohnHartley

Mike on Jerry's arete

Jerry's Arete
Mike on Jerry's arete
© Grimny-lyn - the merry dwarf

Sam Nunn taking the full ride on Sole Power

Sole Power
Sam Nunn taking the full ride on Sole Power
© GwionLlew1

Sam Croft on Carless Torque

Careless Torque
Sam Croft on Carless Torque
© Henry Henderson


Add Climb name Grade Ticks? Height Crag name
Victorian Climb HVS 5a * 4 ? Simon's Seat
Flipper Arête f6A *** 414 ? Robin Hood's...
Spider Wall f6A 72 ? Ilkley (Cow and...
Crease Direct f6A+ ** 410 ? Crookrise
Teaspoon Variation f5+ ** 207 ? Almscliff
Wall of Horrors Start f6A+ * 331 ? Almscliff
Janker's Groove VS 4c * 666 10m Froggatt Edge
Syrett's Roof f7A ** 388 8m Almscliff
Tom's Original f7A * 360 ? Stoney Middleton
Barley Mow f7A 59 6m Almscliff
Ron's Crack II f7A+ * 119 ? Crookrise
Jerry's Arete f7B+ *** 41 ? Bridestones (West...
Bald Pate Superdirect E6 6c * 2 12m Ilkley (Cow and...
Lay-By Arete f7B+ *** 101 ? Slipstones
Central Wall (Aid Route) A2 ** 5 20m Dib Scar
Sole Power f7C *** 55 ? Froggatt Edge
Haston Dyno V10 ** - 9m The Breck
Monoblock f8A *** 5 8m Pex Hill Quarry
Careless Torque f8A *** 19 ? Stanage Plantation
6 e, 34 stars 3,258 73m 19
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