Adam Ondra, the 15-year-old Czech who has already completed nine F9a or harder routes, added perhaps the first and most famous to his resume this week: Action Directe in Germany's Frankenjura. On May 19, Ondra redpointed the classic Wolfgang Güllich testpiece, characterized by dynamic moves between tiny limestone pockets. He had thought at first that one dyno on the big overhang might be too powerful for him, but after about 15 tries he stuck the move. Güllich first climbed Action Directe in 1991, two years before Ondra was born. It has been repeated about nine times in the 17 years since.
Read the report (with action photo's) by Dougald MacDonald at Climbing.com.