UKC

On Speed In Yosemite: Catching Up To The Hubers

© Hans Florine
It has been reported that Thomas and Alexander Huber got a $2 million grant from the German government to aid their record breaking speed ascent of the 870m (2900') Nose route on El Cap, last October. They sped up this big wall classic, normally done in 31 pitches, in a remarkable two hours and 45 minutes (2:45:45), beating the previous 2002 record by Yosemite local and speed evangelist, Hans Florine and Japanese climber Yuji Hirayama by three minutes (2:48:55).

Now Florine, 44 and 39 year old Yuji Hirayama are attempting to regain the top spot on the podium.

FIRST ATTEMPT

With Hirayama only a day off the plane and nursing a sore finger from bouldering, last Monday they did a training ascent with a time of 4 hours and 48 minutes.

SECOND ATTEMPT

Then Thursday they tried again shaving 1 hour and 20 minutes off Monday's ascent hitting the finishing line, actually a tree, with a time of three hours and 28 minutes, 43 minutes slower than the German brothers.

THIRD ATTEMPT

Then yesterday (Sunday 29th June) , it was go number three for Florine and Hirayama and they were shy of the record by 2 1/2 minutes with a time of 2 hours, 47 minutes and 30 seconds.

FOURTH ATTEMPT

They try again Wednesday and Florine is confident that they can shave 15 to 20 minutes off yesterday's time.

More at www.sfgate.com

See the UKClimbing.com article VIDEO AND PHOTOS: Hubers on the Nose: 2:45:45

If you need some Hans Florine tips on how to live your life faster and so save time, including how to change nappies Speedy Gonzales stylee, go to speedispower.com


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30 Jun, 2008
Han's speed tips are hilariously bizarre. I particularly like putting away the dishes whilst listening to NPR. I do most things in life whilst listening to news programming from various worldwide public broadcasters - Hans would be proud of me, although my wife hates it. And who reported the Germans got two million from the government? That seems incredibly unlikely.
30 Jun, 2008
also newsworthy that Ben and Lee Cossey made a 6hr 45min onsight of the route recently: http://www.chockstone.org/Forum/Forum.asp?Action=DisplayTopic&ForumID=1&MessageID=60566&Replies=23#newpost
30 Jun, 2008
30 Jun, 2008
I think you'll find that's the liberal propoganda machine at work (see supertopo threads ad nauseum) If Mick is referring to this: http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=621695&msg=622641#msg622641 it seems a plausable film budget. 'Am Limit' was funded by a variety of sources including the Austrian film institute and German public broadcasters: http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0959282/companycredits Mick implies that the Hubers had direct government support which is a misrepresentation unless he can support his statement.
30 Jun, 2008
Surely you mean: "...and they were shy of the record by 2 1/2 minutes..." rather than: "...and they were shigh the record by 2 1/2 minutes..." Impressive stuff anyway, although I have to admit that I never really 'get' speed climbing - a big part of climbing for me is to appreciate the surroundings and the situation and I'm sure there can't be time for that. I hope they succeed on Wednesday though.
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