UKC

Bouldering Taken To New Level - Font 9A Realised

© Marcin Noga
Rad Butts goes back on Park Front (Font 9A) for the camera  © Marcin Noga
Rad Butts goes back on Park Front (Font 9A) for the camera
© Marcin Noga

The Mabley Green Boulder... Where?!

This solitary monolith of prime Cornish granite was once an esoteric climbing curio, but not any more.

The Mabley Green Boulder is situated in a park close to the A12 at Hackney Wick and is home to the blank Victoria Park Face. Described in the UKC logbooks as "virtually featureless apart from some very marginal undercut crimps", this golden granite wall is now home to a World class boulder problem.

Taking advantage of the recent premium bouldering conditions, one of Britain's most up and coming climbers has succeeded on what could be the hardest single move in the world.

The project, now named Park Front, was climbed on Sunday the 29th of March by Rad Butts. Rad has tentatively offered a grade of Font 9A/V17, making this a contender for the hardest problem in the world.

Speaking after the ascent, Rad's climbing partner Creagan Beaulay said:

"This is the culmination of several years of hard training by Rad and it's great to see this once unknown climber getting the recognition he deserves."

The problem tackles the quarried smooth block known as Victoria Park Face via a "tenuous line of underclings, a few playing-cards thick."

Rad commented that:

"Park Front pushed me further and made me dig deeper than any other route I've climbed before."


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1 Apr, 2009
Not convincing at all... Must try harder...
1 Apr, 2009
Plus it's gone 12 o clock, so there is only one fool.
1 Apr, 2009
Past the noon deadline comedy chump.
1 Apr, 2009
You can read the adventures of Rad Butts here:Winter Climbing with 'Rad'http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=1644A Winter Ascent of Aphrodite - E7http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=1657Park Front - Font 9A - The First Ascenthttp://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=1750
1 Apr, 2009
2/10. Could do better.
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