New Highball Super-Problems

© Beastmaker
Jordan Buys climbing Groove Armada   © Dave Barrans
Jordan Buys climbing Groove Armada
© Dave Barrans
Jordan Buys has climbed the well known 'Tilberthwaite Groove' project at The Lad Stones above Tilberthwaite Quarry , Coniston, Lake District.

The highball problem is now named Groove Armada and Jordan has suggested a grade of Font 7C+/V10. The problem was climbed after abseil cleaning.

Jordan described The Lad Stones as "Two massive boulders with an excellent view thrown in... the walk is a good warm up for the bridging involved..."

The problem tackles the obvious hanging groove above a large flat boulder, which Jordan padded with two bouldering mats.

Jordan is sponsored by Boreal, Moon and BoulderUK

Dan Varian on Arc Royal - Queens Crag  © Beastmaker
Dan Varian on Arc Royal - Queens Crag
© Beastmaker
Northumberland also has a new highball problem, this time courtesy of Beastmaker Dan Varian:

The stunning steep prow is clearly desperate, and very high, and describing his efforts on the Beastmaker blog, Dan said:

As for the grade I really couldn't give a flying shit...

Dan Varian

"Upon first scoping out Queens Crag I noticed 3 lines which I wanted to climb before I got too old. Queen Kong and Red Dragon being my first 2 ports of call, each one pushing me a bit more than the last, 5 sessions, 12 sessions and 25+ sessions represent Queen Kong, Red Dragon and this project respectively."

Dan's other problems Queen Kong and Red Dragon are both graded Font 8A and Arc Royal is considerably harder.

Dan is sponsored by Five Ten and Arc'teryx

Also in Northumberland, reported on ClimbOnline, Jonny Clark made a rare (headpoint) repeat of Off The Rocks (E8 6c) at Back Bowden Doors.

Video - Jonny Clark on Off The Rocks:


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8 Apr, 2009
amazing problems, and off the rocks a rare repeat? i agree it doesnt get too much traffic but there have still been a few keen people doing it.
8 Apr, 2009
JC appears to find the 'Tube' 5c top out which is shared with 'Off the Rocks' more taxing than the choppy 6c crux section...?
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