Stevie Haston - New E8 on Craig Dorys

The awesome Stigmata buttress of Craig Dorys, Lleyn Peninsula, North Wales  © Jack Geldard
The awesome Stigmata buttress of Craig Dorys, Lleyn Peninsula, North Wales
© Jack Geldard

This is an excerpt from the full report on Ground Up Climbing.

Stevie Haston made a return visit to his old stomping grounds in North Wales, ostensibly to visit his family and friends, but also with a view to continuing the development of one of his favourite crags, the alarmingly serious Craig Dorys down on the Lleyn Peninsular.

First up was Bam, Bam E8 6b, a truly mind blowing route up the steep ground in between Bobok and The Gross Clinic on the Stigmata Buttress.

"We cleaned it on an abseil rope first; we must have removed a mini skip's worth of loose rock" explained Leigh McGinley.


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"Some of my best times were in North Wales doing new routes in the Slate quarries, and on Gogarth, in the late 70s and mid-80s. Concurrently visits to the Alps in winter started my tally of solos of alpine routes to...

Stevie's Athlete Page 7 posts



10 Sep, 2009
A pity there's no indication in the text or on the photograph (for those who haven't got a guidebook to the crag) as to where the line goes.
10 Sep, 2009
10 Sep, 2009
Ah, thanks.
10 Sep, 2009
Cheers Simon. That should help when me and Fat Elvis try our onsight attempt this weekend.
10 Sep, 2009
Interesting debate on UKB over this route... it was a well known project with previous attempts made ground-up.
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