Charlotte Durif: F8c+, F8c+, F8b+ And More

Charlotte Durif making the first ascent of Pull Over, F8c+  © Thomas Durif / chadurif.fr
Charlotte Durif making the first ascent of Pull Over, F8c+
© Thomas Durif / chadurif.fr

photo
Charlotte Durif
© Philippe Maurel / Nice-climb.com
19-year-old French climber Charlotte Durif has hit an extra ordinary run of form.

The successful competition climber and former junior world champion has in the last couple of weeks climbed the first ascent of The Wall (F8c+) at Combe la Vielle, and also grabbed the first ascent of Pull Over (F8c+) at Grotte de Galetas in the Verdon area of France.

The grade of The Wall was confirmed just a few days later when it had its first repeat at the hands of the young Frenchman Geoffray De Flaugergues.

Just a couple of days after climbing Pull Over, Charlotte Durif turned her attention to the Verdon Gorge proper; using a 100m rope to onsight the first four pitches of Ultime Démence in a single push, not stopping at the belays.

The individual pitch grades are F8a+, F8a, F8a+, F7c+. Charlotte commented that she thought her mega link was F8b+ in difficulty.

Ultime Démence was first bolted back in 2000 by Laurent Triay and is five pitches long in total. Durif only missed the final pitch, which is also the easiest pitch on the route at F7c. Perhaps if she had a longer rope then the whole route could have been climbed in a single pitch?

Obviously not tired from her effort, Charlotte then went on to link the first two pitches of Ramirole: F8a+/b and F8a the following day!


Charlotte Durif is sponsored by various companies including Beal , Petzl and prAna

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6 Nov, 2009
Strong lass. Cracking photo too, looks an amazing route!
6 Nov, 2009
Really brilliant photo
6 Nov, 2009
the verdon link up sounds mega!
6 Nov, 2009
Saw Geoffray in action at the EYS at Ratho. He was absolutely amazing. 8c+, and he's only 14. He'll go far, that lad!
6 Nov, 2009
I totally agree. It is really interesting what is possible on these 'multi-pitch' routes, with a long rope - not unlike Steve Crowe's effort on Malham. For Charlotte to do that route in the Verdon onsight is simply phenomenal and could pave the way for more of the same. This removal of 'pitches' isn't new (think Yuji going ledge to ledge on El Cap) and also if you think of the speed ascents of El Cap (climbers simul climbing a few metres apart). Basically, climbing in it's current pitched form is limited by rope length and all the associated variables (friction, weight of gear etc). Hence why really old VDiffs traditionally have very short pitches. Lets give Charlotte a 200m 6mm rope and a set of DMM revolvers! That's what I say! Interesting stuff and clearly she is on amazing form. Congrats from me. I'm very impressed. Jack
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