Auchinstarry Quarry Under Threat

Ellis Ash and Martin Reynard enjoying Surface Tension, Auchinstarry Quarry, Lowland Outcrops © Simon Witcher
Ellis Ash and Martin Reynard enjoying Surface Tension, Auchinstarry Quarry, Lowland Outcrops
© Simon Witcher

Auchinstarry Quarry, a popular venue for Glasgow based climbers, has been undergoing 'safety work' courtesy of North Lanarkshire Council which is having a major impact on the climbing there. Barriers are being erected and climbing is impossible in some areas.

The council are concerned about liability and have deemed some areas of the quarry unsafe and are have instigated some rock stabilisation work. They have done this before.

Hebe Carus of the Mountaineering Council of Scotland (MCofS) has been in discussion with the council but has found them to be frustratingly fickle:

"I have complained to the Access Officer that there is a lack of clear information and reasoning and that decisions regarding access are being taken without a legal reason...

A meeting between the Access Officer and the maintenance staff was postponed from 12th April to 19th April, I have phoned and e-mailed to express the urgency as rock season is here already and I have been chasing this on behalf of climbers since last year"

More info on the MCofS website.

The quarry is a popular and high quality climbing ground with around 120 mid grade routes. Judging by the UKC Logbooks, the most popular route there is The Scream a classic Severe that has 243 logged ascents by UKC users.

Hebe Carus will be updating the MCofS website when more information becomes available.

More Info On Auchinstarry Quarry:

Auchinstarry Quarry

Stirlingshire, SCOTLAND

Climbs 126 – Rocktype Dolerite – Altitude 100m – Faces S

Photo Gallery

Central Belt Dolerite possibly looking appealing?

Central Belt Dolerite possibly looking appealing?
© DJayB

Ellis Ash and Martin Reynard enjoying Surface Tension, Auchinstarry Quarry, Lowland Outcrops

Ellis Ash and Martin Reynard enjoying Surface Tension, Auchinstarry Quarry, Lowland Outcrops
© Simon Witcher

Surface Tension, Auchinstarry

Surface Tension, Auchinstarry
© Fraser

'Surface Tension' from across the water

'Surface Tension' from across the water
© Fraser

'Surface Tension' practice - pulling through the reachy crux

'Surface Tension' practice - pulling through the reachy crux
© Fraser

Trundling on up

Trundling on up
© DJayB

red lead

red lead
© mike71

Placing RPs on Red Lead

Placing RPs on Red Lead
© smokey

Surface Tension

Surface Tension
© atibbs

Auchinstarry Quarry

Auchinstarry Quarry
© Rhoddy Stewart

Seconding Promontory Direct

Seconding Promontory Direct
© magpie

Blade Runner Direct Last big push

Blade Runner Direct Last big push
© dmacmorris

 


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14 Apr, 2010
The MCofS contacted UKClimbing.com directly and asked to work together in raising the profile of this issue. Thanks, Jack
14 Apr, 2010
Was it someone who posts on here that got jarred by the Police for bouldering there a few weeks back? I'd be curious to see what the actual legalities of this are. I've got fond memories of Auchinstarry as it was the place where I learnt to climb.
14 Apr, 2010
Perhaps not for those who haven't been there recently or are not from the area but may consider visiting? Personally I have never been there and have little knowledge of the subject except what I know from speaking directly to the MCofS. I'm sorry I didn't really understand the first part of your response there. But as for the second part, I believe the meeting has been postponed until the 19th, as quoted in the UKC news item. Thanks, Jack
14 Apr, 2010
I wrote to the council access officer (cc MCofS) a while back but how as individuals can we help raise the profile of the issue? Should we be raising it with the canvassers & survey forms sent out by candidates? PS MCofS did a great job with Limekilns last year - thanks.
14 Apr, 2010
Hi all, If anyone has been there recently could they update as to which areas/routes have been deemed to be 'unsafe' and hence "inaccessible" by the powers that be? I'm no geologist (despite working in a building full of them :-/ ), but having spent some time enjoying the 'delights' of central belt dolerite quarries it seems that removal of the more weathered outer rock (for so-called 'stabilisation' or otherwise) almost always exacerbates looseness by exposing much more friable un-weathered rock/mud making the problem worse... anyone with any expertise out there?
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