Toru Nakajima in CornwallVideo

© Mark Glaister

Toru Nakajima headpoints 29 Palms (E8 6c/7a) on BMC International Meet  © Kafoozalem
Toru Nakajima headpoints 29 Palms (E8 6c/7a) on BMC International Meet
© Kafoozalem, May 2010

Toru climbing and Keita belaying on Cain - BMC International Sea Cliff Climbing Meet 2010  © Harald
Toru climbing and Keita belaying on Cain - BMC International Sea Cliff Climbing Meet 2010
© Harald, May 2010
On the recent BMC International meet in Cornwall, visiting Japanese climber Toru Nakajima made several impressive ascents.

Toru, the youngster who made headlines last year by ripping it up on the Peak gritstone (see UKC News) was again on good form, this time on the perfect golden granite of Cornwall.

As reported on the BMC Website, the top ticks from the international meet were:

  • Morgawr (E6, 6c) Pat Littlejohn's tough test piece from 1996 saw it's second ascent by Czech Republic climber Jiri Sefl. He stormed through the crux unable to place much gear due to being pumped!
  • The Absolution (E6, 6C) another bold Littlejohn route had it's third ascent by Jiri Sefl. Just shy of the on sight Jiri fell off on the top crux, then climbed the route free.
  • 29 Palms (E8, 6c) Andy Long's masterpiece had a second ascent from top Japanese climber Toru Nakajima placing no protection in the peg holes. Toru also onsighted Tears of a Clown (E7, 6b) and soloed both Storms over Africa (E6, 6b) and Hell Hath No Fear (E7,6b) after trying both routes once on top rope.
  • Many tough test pieces saw multiple onsights: Carmen (E6, 6b), Footless Madness (E6, 6b), Black Magic (E5, 6a), Darkinbad (E5, 6b), Liberator (E5, 6a), The West Face (E5, 6b), Demolition (E6 6a), Samson (E5, 6b), Baptisim of Fire (E6, 6b), Pinch the Egyptian (E6, 6c), Dog Town (E5, 6b) and Let The River Live (E6, 6b).
  • Matteo Della Bordella from Italy made casual onsights of Wild at Heart (E6, 6b), Evil Eye (E5, 6b), Fun Curve Factory (E5, 6a) and The Lost Arrow (E5, 6b). Matteo narrowly missed the flash of Bridge of Sies (E7, 6b).

In this video from Mark Glaister, Toru solos the small but technical arete of Storms Over Africa at Cribba Head. The route is very close to a crack on the right, and Storms Over Africa was originally climbed with this peg offering some protection. It has since been straightened out - and it is the straight and protection-less version that Toru climbs here.

VIDEO: Toru - Storms Over Africa E6 6b

Warning - this video contains some swearing by concerned onlookers!

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One of the strongest, most gifted climbers in the world. Toru can do it all; from hard grit ascents in the middle of summer, repeats of some of the world's hardest boulder problems, hard sport climbing and even...

Toru's Athlete Page 11 posts 2 videos

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2 Jun, 2010
Hi UKC News, Not wanting to put a dampener on what looks like an excellent visit by some fine young climbers, but I do have to make a couple of facts clearer. Firstly Andy did not do the first ascent of 29 Palms in any style of ascent. He knows this as we had this discussion below the route over the years he was top-rope practicing the line. I made the first ascent with rurps and blades/replaced with drilled out unfortunately fatter stainless, Mike Owen did the second ascent with these pegs replaced I repeated my route without any pegs or use of the holes when smaller cams became available. I did not use the holes for holds or protection. Congrats to Toro on his ascent. Secondly, Tears of a Clown has not had a second ascent as far as I know. All ascents have gone up Ace of Spades to the break and then stepped left. Tears' goes left off the small ledge "immediately" and makes the crux move to the break. The gear is only a wrong way around small nut on the ledge, and is very rippable. Ground-fall potential. Going up and then left misses out the crux of the route and the E7 grade. Great article though and good to see Cornwall in your news page. All the bet Mark
2 Jun, 2010
Apologies: I meant to say "Toru" of course.
2 Jun, 2010
Wow, cool to see little old Cribba on a bigger stage. Bit of a dull video though.
2 Jun, 2010
we all know Mark Edwards style of ascent down here, maybe Andy longs wasn't too far off the mark???
2 Jun, 2010
In what way was that dull. It was totally gripping. Especially at 1:37. The kid is superb and its great to see Cornish granite in the news.
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