UKC

Midtbø climbs 9b

After three weeks in the Ali Baba cave at Rodellar, success came for Magnus Midtbø in the form of Ali Hulk extension sit start, Dani Andrada's 85 move upside down wrestling match of a 9b.

The route can be divided into two parts. The first is 8c+ or 9a in it's own right and takes you to a knee-bar. This part can be climbed without a rope. From there you got ~15m of 8c+ to the chains.

There aren't that many 9b's in the world, only eight or so, and this is the 2nd one, after Chris Sharma's Golpe de estado, repeated by Ondra, to see a second ascent.

In style, it's rather similar to the First route to be given this grade, Fred Rouhling's legendary/infamous Akira. This route also climbs out a cave and is protectable with pads for the first half.

The routes given 9b or harder are:

Akira, Fred Rouhling

Chilam balam (9b+), Barnabé Fernandéz

Ali Hulk extension sit start, Dani Andrada

Delicuente natural extension, Andrada

Salamandre, Fred Rouhling

Golpe de estado, Chris Sharma

Jumbo love, Sharma

Neandertal, Sharma

Sources: Magnus' blog/Kairn

photo
Magnus is the one to the right
© Magnus Midtboe


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